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  #1  
Old 08-05-2015, 06:32 AM
jnmeade jnmeade is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 161
Default Rebuild A Run-out Engine?

Is it a cost-effective option to buy a run-out engine and rebuild it as opposed to buying new or even settling for a different engine to save money? I have the tools and skills available.
Am looking at the O-235 to O-360 range.
Would prefer car gas.
Will be in an experimental (natch).
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  #2  
Old 08-05-2015, 06:55 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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That is exactly my plan. Tear it down, send it off for inspection, install new cylinders (or OH existing, if they are first run) and re-assemble.

Total cost should be around 15k vs 25k+ for all new.

EDIT: And if you don't go with high-compression pistons (> 8.5 to 1 or so), you can run MOGAS. (also my plan)
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Last edited by Raymo : 08-05-2015 at 11:30 AM.
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  #3  
Old 08-05-2015, 06:59 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnmeade View Post
Is it a cost-effective option to buy a run-out engine and rebuild it as opposed to buying new or even settling for a different engine to save money? I have the tools and skills available.
Am looking at the O-235 to O-360 range.
Would prefer car gas.
Will be in an experimental (natch).
It depends on how many times it's been overhauled. Just because it's timed out doesn't mean it's worn out. My engine was a first run, run-out. It had over 2800 hrs TT. Every part that I took out met serviceable tolerances.

The only reason I rebuilt it was to increase HP.

If it's only been overhauled once or twice and you have the tools and skills, then go for it.

Also, take a look at how previous overhauls were done. A lot can be gleaned by reading the logbook entry. If all parts are listed, that's one thing. If the entry simply says "overhauled IAW manufacturers instructions", I would be wary.
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  #4  
Old 08-05-2015, 07:08 AM
Kent Ashton Kent Ashton is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 116
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It works pretty well to buy a first-run runout engine, send the case and parts out to overhaulers, and reassemble it yourself. First-run cylinders should give you one more run. Or buy one with known bad cylinders and use do the same installing new ones. The Lycomings go together pretty easily. Manuals are online. This site will give you the idea
http://www.meyette.us/SuperiorTextPics.htm

It can get very expensive when the crank, cam, or lifters are not serviceable. A new cam is $3000-4000. You might want to buy from someone that will guarantee they are serviceable.

I suppose one of the low compression Lycomings would do OK on car gas. Google "Lycoming engine versions" to see which ones.
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  #5  
Old 08-05-2015, 08:20 AM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnmeade View Post
Is it a cost-effective option to buy a run-out engine and rebuild it as opposed to buying new or even settling for a different engine to save money? I have the tools and skills available.
Am looking at the O-235 to O-360 range.
Would prefer car gas.
Will be in an experimental (natch).
I purchased a used wrecked aircraft for $2,600 to get an engine. I rebuilt the engine to new specs paying cash as I went over several years. When the engine went on my RV-6 (first flown September 1997) I had $12,000 dollars wrapped up in the rebuilt engine. At the time I spend the $2,600, I could have purchase a NEW Lycoming engine from Van's Aircraft for $12,000. Yes I am an A&P that has all the documentation to work on engines and a lot of the tools.

It is hard to beat the price of a new engine from Van's or one of the builders that advertise on VAF.
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  #6  
Old 08-05-2015, 08:45 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV6_flyer View Post
It is hard to beat the price of a new engine from Van's or one of the builders that advertise on VAF.
Or it was when new engines were $12K. The cost of a new IO-360 is, what, well north of $25K? Closer to $30K if you don't wait for the Oshkosh special. I'm overhauling an O-360 and adding dual PMags, fuel injection and all new cylinders. I'll still save at least $10K, and that's with a certified engine shop doing the work. If I knew what I was doing enough to feel confident flying with an engine I assembled (which I don't), it could be a lot cheaper.

You do have to carefully pick your core engine though. If you spend $8K on a runout engine that has a bad crank or a cracked case, well, you may as well have bought new. Mine was a pretty good deal, though if the cylinders hadn't had so much exhaust port erosion it would have been a lot better. I'm also saving a substantial amount of money because I'm not in a hurry, so I can invest some time and shop around for good deals.

So rebuilding a mid-time or runout engine can be a good deal, if you do it right and maybe get a little lucky. Or it can end up costing nearly as much as brand new, it depends a lot on how you do it.
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  #7  
Old 08-05-2015, 10:47 AM
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gyoung gyoung is offline
 
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Location: Spring, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleB View Post
You do have to carefully pick your core engine though. If you spend $8K on a runout engine that has a bad crank or a cracked case, well, you may as well have bought new. Mine was a pretty good deal, though if the cylinders hadn't had so much exhaust port erosion it would have been a lot better. I'm also saving a substantial amount of money because I'm not in a hurry, so I can invest some time and shop around for good deals.

So rebuilding a mid-time or runout engine can be a good deal, if you do it right and maybe get a little lucky. Or it can end up costing nearly as much as brand new, it depends a lot on how you do it.
Amen. I bought a run-out core from a friend and the case, crank and cam had to be replaced. My all-in O/H cost wound up the same as an equivalent new engine. Don't count on cost savings unless you have a guarantee on the major components.
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  #8  
Old 08-05-2015, 12:07 PM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Ouch... so you saved a little money on gears.

I had discussed this with the local engine shop (Central Cylinder) to find out what kind of O/H cost I could expect on a typical used O-360. Based on that conversation it was obvious that unless I got a smokin' deal on a core, it would not ave a lot over the cost of a new engine from somebody like Titan.

I assumed that anything I bought would need all new cylinders and a new cam, and that I'd sell or scrap the carb, mags, starter and alternator (I ended up trading them to the shop in exchange for teardown and NDT). I also decided not to even consider anything that had suffered a prop strike -- too many unknowns.

That knocked out about 90% of the engines I saw for sale, either due to prop strike or price. I got a little lucky. After teardown and NDT it seems I bought one with a good cam and all internal parts, no cracks in the case, etc.
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Omaha, NE
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  #9  
Old 08-05-2015, 12:49 PM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
Posts: 4,514
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Regarding new vrs rebuild, when all is said and done the log tells a story especially when the aircraft is sold.

A new engine attracts more attention and pay back. A 25 year old engine is 25 years old in the log no matter what.

I went through the process twice and gave up on trying to save a few bucks rebuilding junk. New costs a bit more but it's worth it.

In the end you get what you pay for. Once in while luck prevails but the market is not stupid. A good used engine commands a good price. Junk is usually over priced and full of money traps. What is really frustrating is rebuilding an old engine to very good standards and sill having it being OLD in the log. You can end up with the cost of a new engine and stuck with an old engine in the log.
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2015, 01:24 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,391
Default Engine

I will take Barrett over Lycoming by a huge margin.
Bill Harrelson did his two amazing record flights in the Lancair 4 with a Barrett engine.
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