Stall Warning Assembly

[TFeeney]

I feel like this is a dumb question - but surely not something I'm the first person to encounter. While installing the stall warning tab on the -10, you come across the instructions below. Notice in the step circled that the hole is drilled using a #31 bit. I don't want to be cheap, but wouldn't a more typical #30 be acceptable here for the #4 screw? It will provide more clearance for the screws, and its not a structural component.

Do I really need to buy another drill bit and countersink? What did everyone else do (those that used this mousetrap anyway)? People conveniently leave this out of there build logs!

[9GT]

I drilled per plans. I have a couple sets of complete fractional, letter, & number drills in my shop and can't imagine being without them. There is an .0085 difference between #31 and #30 drills.(120" & .1285") Thats a lot of slop IMHO.

[David Paule]

When I installed this in my RV-3B, I did the same thing - followed the plans. Like 9GT, I have a full set of the drills. Makes life a lot easier.

Dave

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by David Paule

When I installed this in my RV-3B, I did the same thing - followed the plans. Like 9GT, I have a full set of the drills. Makes life a lot easier.

Dave

Since the non-standard drill sizes will be used infrequently and mostly in aluminum, a cheap set will be OK.

http://www.harborfreight.com/60-piec...set-34627.html

Buy good drill bits in the common sizes (40, 30, 19, 12, etc) for regular use.

[TFeeney]

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll stick with the plans.

What about the countersink?
I'm assuming the #30 countersink pilot won't fit in the #31 hole - am I wrong?

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by TFeeney

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll stick with the plans.

What about the countersink?
I'm assuming the #30 countersink pilot won't fit in the #31 hole - am I wrong?

Careful use of a non-piloted countersink in a hand held drill will be OK...