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  #1  
Old 07-02-2015, 10:28 AM
AAflyer's Avatar
AAflyer AAflyer is offline
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Mill, South Carolina
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Default Mixture bellcrank "bushing"

I'm spending a lot of time fine-tuning my throttle and mixture cable linkages, now that I've got them run through the firewall. When I was tightening the bolt that runs through the pivot point of the mixture bell crank (VA-165), I discovered that the Vans-installed brass bushing (C-670) doesn't seem to work like most other bushings in bell cranks; i.e. aileron bellcrank. That is, it does not spin freely in the bellcrank, ( it is pressed in) and it does not protrude beyond the dimension of its tubular housing.
I thought that these attributes were what made a bushing useful: it allows you to cinch down the pivot bolt, while allowing smooth, unimpeded freedom of movement of the bell crank.
The supplied hardware uses an AN4-10 bolt and a castle nut, so I am just supposed to screw the nut down to the point where its 'wobble' is minimal, and slap in a cotter pin? This results in a sloppy fit of the bell crank, so…
I'm asking; should I removed the bushing and re-size it so it spins in position, and file down the ends of the bell crank tube so the bushing is slightly longer, or…leave it alone?

Thanks. Here's a picture to remind you what I'm talking about.

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  #2  
Old 07-02-2015, 06:17 PM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Default

I've run across this on some of the Vans stuff myself. Typically, I'll team the ID of the part to allow rotation around the bushing and sometimes have to sand the rotating part down to allow bushing protrusion. After that, grease it up and cinch it down tight. The bushing should be stationary, as you thought.
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