Rudder cable question

[Paul Eastham]

At the point where the rudder cables connect to the rudder control horn, you attach them with AN3 bolts. If you torque down the bolt/nut, it will cause the cable to rub against the fuselage skin if you fully deflect the rudder. Is the intent for these bolts to be very loose so that the cables will swivel away from the skin?

[Rick6a]

Originally Posted by Paul Eastham

At the point where the rudder cables connect to the rudder control horn, you attach them with AN3 bolts. If you torque down the bolt/nut, it will cause the cable to rub against the fuselage skin if you fully deflect the rudder. Is the intent for these bolts to be very loose so that the cables will swivel away from the skin?

Slightly loose, no slop. You should not physically distort the rudder cable clevis by over torquing the bolt going through it. It requires free movement around the bolt securing it to the rudder horn.

[Mel]

That's why you use AN3-x bolts and castle nuts instead of AN3-xA bolts. The cotter pin prevents loosening of the nut.

[Paul Eastham]

Originally Posted by Mel

That's why you use AN3-x bolts and castle nuts instead of AN3-xA bolts. The cotter pin prevents loosening of the nut.

Well, the parts rotate in any event, so the looseness is not the only reason to use a castle nut.

As for not distorting the thing, I (rightly or wrongly) put some washers in there to fill the gap.

It's an annoying tradeoff -- if I have it just barely finger tight, it seems a bit loose and wobbly. If I tighten it one flat (to allow the cotter pin to line up) it rubs against the skin pretty aggressively. Maybe I'll try putting a tiny bit of oil in there to find a better balance.

Thanks for the input -
Paul

[Mel]

Sounds like the washers are the problem. Without the washers you can tighten the nut "slightly" squeezing the clevis without binding the cable.
BTW, you don't want to use oil here. Oil will attract dirt and this fitting is in a dirty enviroment.

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Originally Posted by Paul Eastham

It's an annoying tradeoff -- if I have it just barely finger tight, it seems a bit loose and wobbly. If I tighten it one flat (to allow the cotter pin to line up) it rubs against the skin pretty aggressively. Maybe I'll try putting a tiny bit of oil in there to find a better balance.

Paul-
I just got down making this connection myself on the -9. I'm not sure why your rudder cable would be rubbing against the fuselage side skin. That bolt through the clevis and rudder horn should definitely be loose enough that the cable continues to run in a straight line from the exit of the fuse to the rudder horn. If your cable is bowing and touching the skin, it would seem like you've got the bolt too tight. As the others have mentioned above, the point of the using is the castle nut is so that you don't need to torque it down. Also, since Van's doesn't call out for any extra washers, I don't see a reason to add them. All they could do is add friction that might cause some of the problem you seem to be experiencing. I may be misinterpreting your problem, but hope this helps a little. Let me know if I can explain my -9 experience any further.

[Paul Eastham]

Originally Posted by Mel

Sounds like the washers are the problem. Without the washers you can tighten the nut "slightly" squeezing the clevis without binding the cable.
BTW, you don't want to use oil here. Oil will attract dirt and this fitting is in a dirty enviroment.

Yep, that makes sense. Thanks!