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11-14-2006, 01:43 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Coshocton, Ohio
Posts: 315
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About to fire it up!
OK, I can't avoid it much longer (Not that I've been trying that hard  )
About to fire up my O-360 for the first time since complete overhaul. New crank, jugs (Superior), most everything else overhauled or new.
The question is, since it's not been run in a test cell, and I need to do some taxi testing as well as some kind of engine run-in on the ground, any recomendations on time/RPMs/temps/etc? I do have EGT's and CHT's on all cylinders if that will make a difference.
I'm in Detroit, and we are approaching the winter months, so cooling may not be as big a concern, but I'm still shy a whole bunch of knowledge on this.
Mahlon, feel free to jump in, you owned a bunch of these parts before I did (Yes, Lori is a piece of work!) 
__________________
Dave Durakovich
CFIG, AGI, COMM SEL, VAF# 133
RV-4, N666PR, Finished (Well, at least flying)!
RV-6 - Adopted an orphan!
Detroit, MI
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right."
Henry Ford
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11-14-2006, 03:54 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,024
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I can recommend this schedule:
CYLINDER RUN-IN FOR STEEL,
NITRIDED OR REBARRELED CYLINDERS
1] Install mineral oil in the engine.
2] Start engine, run at 800 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes, shut down, check for leaks.
3] Start engine, run at 1,000 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes, shut down, check for leaks.
4] Cowl aircraft.
5] Start engine, run at 1,200 R.P.M.'s for three (3) minutes, shut down, park into the wind.
6] Start engine, run at 1,400 R.P.M.'s for five (5) minutes, shut down, park into wind.
7] Start engine, run at 1,400 R.P.M.'s for ten minutes, shut down, park into wind.
8] Start engine, run at 1,400 R.P.M.'s for five (5) minutes, run up to full power, check all engine parameters, retard power to 1,000 R.P.M. for one (1) minute, shut down.
9] Check for leaks, return engine to service (see Engine Break-In Instructions).
All runs should be made into the wind.
At no time during these runs should CHT exceed 350?F.
Between all engine runs, allow adequate cool off time.
Before proceeding to next run, you should be able to hold your hand on a rear cylinder head for three to five seconds.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
?The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk.?
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11-14-2006, 06:48 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Beaver, OK
Posts: 447
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Pre-Lube
One thing that is very important is to Pre-Lube the engine with oil before startup. Would also be good if your oil is heated along with some means to warm the engine before that first startup if your in a cold area. The heat will allow the oil to flow much quicker to all of the critical areas. That first startup is really critical for all of those new parts and they need oil before you start cranking on it.
__________________
Alan (AJ) Judy
Beaver, OK in NO MANS LAND
RV-6 IO360A1B6 C/S Hartz 200HP ?
Also Fly North American NAVIONs
Race car engine builder/Machinist/Fabricator 1982--present.
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11-14-2006, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,024
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Lycoming has an SI that addresses this issue: SI-1241C
Go to this URL to get it:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main...tructions.html
I used this technique on my new ECI engine and after 100.2 hrs, everything is doing great.
__________________
Steve Formhals
A&P, Tech Counselor & Flight Advisor
RV3B
RV8
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11-15-2006, 08:11 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Coshocton, Ohio
Posts: 315
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Thanks all, I appreciate it!
I love having a plan...... just wish I had one when I started this #$%^ project 
__________________
Dave Durakovich
CFIG, AGI, COMM SEL, VAF# 133
RV-4, N666PR, Finished (Well, at least flying)!
RV-6 - Adopted an orphan!
Detroit, MI
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right."
Henry Ford
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