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05-15-2015, 09:55 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,477
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Hammerforming
Once upon a time, an RV was built from raw sheet by forming over hammerforms. Obviously we don't do much of that anymore, although there are some remaining plans-builders who do.
Anyway, this is a rescue project, a fuselage former for a Yak 50, the station being about a foot aft of the firewall. The airplane did a bit of belly crawling following a gear problem, happily on smooth grass, and the original former wasn't salvagable. Apparently the parts are no longer available from the Mother Country, so the repair required the fabrication of a new former.
I was able to pull measurements from another 50, and combined with the remains of the broken former, I got the shape nailed down in AutoCad. Took the .dwg file to a waterjet shop and had them cut the basic hammerform profile from a chunk of 3/4" 6061T6 plate pulled from my scrap bin. The rest is hand work, notably edge radius, lightening hole locations, and a die to press the lightening hole flanges.
First I tried a practice part in 2024-T3, just to see if I could avoid a trip to the heat treat shop. As expected, it wasn't possible to shrink T3 enough at the wide outer flange. Probably could have done it with flutes, but the original Russian part had none, and the goal was a exact copy. So, out came the 2024-0 soft stuff. One quick practice part to tune the tools, then this part. I'll probably send it to the rib shop that builds your RV ribs for Vans, and ask them to tuck it in with a batch for heat treating to the T3 level.
Hammerform on top, new Russian-American fuselage former on bottom. And yes, if your local Yak flyer happens to develop a bad belly rib, tell him you know where to get a duplicate

__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
Last edited by DanH : 05-15-2015 at 10:01 AM.
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05-15-2015, 10:10 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ga
Posts: 662
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heat treating
Dan,
Wouldn't that be T-4 rather than T-3 on the heat treating?
cj
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Craig
RV-3 Sold
RV-4 Sold
RV-6a Sold
RV-9 IO-360 CS, Built and Flying
Aerostar 600A, Family Hotrod
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05-15-2015, 11:15 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
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New part
Nice work. That takes an artists touch.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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05-15-2015, 11:49 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: palm coast fl.
Posts: 945
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Hammer form
Looks good Dan, pretty satisfying making something from nothing .Lucky for most Vans came along otherwise there would be about 487 Thorpes finshed by now .
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Rv8
N 666 TA
First Flight 2-3-2015 🚀
2017 donation paid
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05-15-2015, 12:03 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,456
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Be prepared to receive a pretzel from the heat treater 
__________________
Scott Black
Old school simple VFR RV 4, O-320, wood prop, MGL iEfis Lite
VAF dues 2020
Instagram @sblack2154
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05-15-2015, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: palm coast fl.
Posts: 945
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Pretzel
Quote:
Originally Posted by sblack
Be prepared to receive a pretzel from the heat treater 
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How could this problem be solved before heat treating ?
__________________
Rv8
N 666 TA
First Flight 2-3-2015 🚀
2017 donation paid
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05-15-2015, 01:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,428
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It looks as if there's no allowance for spring-back after forming. I've never worked with 2024-T0 before. Will it need any?
Dave
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05-15-2015, 01:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 1,210
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Try this
At my day job we heat treat every day, often some very interesting parts. If you were in Greensboro NC, Id have it done for you tomorrow. 2024-0, treated to 2024-T4 or T42 (T3 is only achieved by the mfg. of the alloy)is a simple process, and some warping will likely occur. Often, the part can be wired with safety wire to a rigid steel item which will prevent most of the warping. We use baskets made from perforated steel mesh, but have also used angle iron ect. If the quench process is done quickly and correctly, its is minimal. Most RV ribs require fluting to remove such twist/bowing, as we all know. Any straightening will be easiest just after the quench and prior to the age hardening, but I wouldn't worry too much about that. I make many parts for vintage birds at my home shop, and its always very rewarding..keep up the good work!
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Bill E.
RV-4/N76WE
8A7 / Advance NC
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05-15-2015, 02:28 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule
It looks as if there's no allowance for spring-back after forming. I've never worked with 2024-T0 before. Will it need any?
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Not much. Actually, I did sand a springback allowance for the outside flange, as it is the widest, faces the skin, and the one requiring shrinking. None on the inside, as the flange is only 3/8" wide, and doesn't need to be perfectly 90 degrees to the web.

__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
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05-15-2015, 06:13 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g zero
How could this problem be solved before heat treating ?
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I don't know if it can. It is long and skinny so I would expect it to curl up somewhat - just because of its basic shape - nothing to o do with how it was formed. The maddening thing is that right out of heat treat it will still be soft enough to correct for some period of time. But if your heat treater is on the other side of the country it's difficult.
__________________
Scott Black
Old school simple VFR RV 4, O-320, wood prop, MGL iEfis Lite
VAF dues 2020
Instagram @sblack2154
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