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The power setting is 25" MP/ 2500 RPM. I am planning on balancing the injector nozzles to bring up the #1 CHT.
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Michael,
First of all, engine break in is usually over in the first few hours. 5-6 is enough and by the 10 it is most surely. I hate people using the old 25/2500 as being some kind of perfect setting, but in any case this will have given you about 80% power when ROP. I assume you left it full rich. You could have done in LOP but used 27"/2500 and achieved the same power but cleaner and slightly wider range of average pressures, but that is not the question here.
Please DO NOT do this:
"I am planning on balancing the injector nozzles to bring up the #1 CHT" as this is a
REALLY bad idea.
This is akin to saying three of my tyres are a bit more worn than the 4th one so I will let 20PSI out and wear it down to match the others.
Balancing your cylinders is all about matching the Fuel/Air ratios. That is getting a good GAMI spread, for you that is about 0.3 GPH between when the first EGT peaks and the last one peaks. 0.5GPH is the line in the sand but I find on the 4 cylinders you want to get more like 0.3.
This then gets the engine working right. The HEAT IN part of the equation is fixed. Now is the time to look at baffles and getting the CHT's at a reasonable level in climb and cruise. What is reasonable? A big rubbery zone, but if I use my RV10 as an example it would rarely get above 380 in the climb except on a very hot day and not by much, and once cruising around 355-370 if ROP and 325-350 LOP on a hot day and about 15 less on cool days.
If you get your CHT's within 25-30df of each other and they are all good. Life is good. Dan Horton has good posts on baffles etc.
If what I wrote above is not 100% clear, PM me so we can discuss it. Never ever monkey with injectors to fix a CHT.