Inserting bucking bar into work table

[jdeas]

Lurking here for several months I have grown to appreciate how a properly setup shop can make a huge difference in the final outcome of a project. I am a week or so from ordering my empannage kit and have obtained most of my tools as well as attending a Sportair workshop (money well spent!).
As I was working on the bench I started to wonder about inserting a metal bar into the table for back riveting.
My question is based on the physics of a bucking bar. I doubt it makes much difference but would inserting a flat plate into a bench over neoprene or some other reactive spacer have any positive aspects over a ridged mounting?
The flexible base would cause the plate to react more like a hand held bucking bar and may even lower the noise level. On the negative side the 'return' force may mark the skin. I realize that a wood table will already produce some of this action but up to now all my back riveting has been done ?plate on floor?.
I was also wondering what size table most builders end up with.

[sf3543]

I have a 1/2 inch piece of steel about 4 inches wide and two feet long and two pieces of 1/2" plywood, 2'x4'. I just lay the steel on the table and the plywood pieces on each side of it. I use short screws to screw the plywood pieces to the table to hold everything in place. The bar should be as solid as you can get it.
This works well for me and allows me to move it around or just plain store it when not in use. You don't really need this set up much except for the empennage, flaps and ailerons, but the bar comes in handy for lots of smaller parts.
You can do something similar for the C-frame in order to hold the work piece at the same level as the dimple die or rivet set.
Some folks actually build this into their work bench, but I prefer to use the pieces and then store them.
Both methods work great.
Don't over think this, it's not rocket science.

[cobra]

I flat filed and polished one side of 5 foot long piece of 4" x 4" angle iron; then routed a channel along one edge of the work table, just deep enough so that the polished surface lays flush on with the work table top for back riveting. It is heavy enough that no screws are needed to hold it in place and allows some freedom for fine alignments when needed. The angles have been handy for clamping supports to hold parts in place as well.

I also drilled a series of holes along one edge of that angle iron, which line up with every other hole on vans edge strips, to secure/cleco the skins straight for assembly of the rudder/ elevators/ etc. Worked great.