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11-06-2006, 11:21 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 506
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blood, sweat, tears, now corrosion!
Hey guys,
Some of the alclad skins on my kit have gotten corroded where my sweaty arms or forehead (don't ask) have come into contact. I imagine blood and tears would give a similar effect.
It'll probably be 6 months before the airplane flies and 12 months before it gets painted. But the corrosion is noticable enough, and in prominent enough places, to bother me. It shows as a cloudy white area, not enough to feel with a fingertip though.
Is there something relatively easy I can do to inhibit or preferably remove this corrosion? I'm not interested in getting a motorized buffer or anything, but I'm willing to try to polish by hand...
Paul
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11-07-2006, 04:44 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: south carolina
Posts: 1,111
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sweat
paul i saw this on mine and have since been more careful. i sprayed some metal prep on mine and lightly rubbed with a green/grey scotchbrite. then you can poilish if you want buy hand. just go very lightly but enough to remove the corrosion. when you have removed it respary and give it a minute of dwell time before wiping off with water soaked rags a couple of times.i doubt its through the alclad but the longer it stays the sooner it will be.
if its minor enough you can forgo the scotch brite.
__________________
William Weesner/ still kicking.
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11-07-2006, 06:13 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 271
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I used some aluminum cleaner I got from Wick's. Just wipe it on, let set for a minute or two and polish it off. It takes a little rubbibg, but takes all the corrosion right off.
Two problems with it though, the "black" stuff gets in around the rivets and is a little difficult to get out and second the aluminum you clean shines like a new baby's behind... care to polish the whole plane?
Larry
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11-07-2006, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Posts: 311
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I am using NUVITE polish...it restores the health of the alclad and removes the corrision. I had similar problems with plain old water spots after I washed off all the dust from fiberlass tip work. It takes a fair amount of elbow grease, unless you have a electric polisher...
www.nuvite.com
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11-07-2006, 08:26 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ATL
Posts: 734
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What types of aluminum cleaner or polish can safely be used if you intend to paint later? I don't want any primer or paint adhesion issues.
Thanks!
Scott
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11-07-2006, 10:48 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Posts: 311
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I am thinking that the polish is not an issue, because you still have to remove the corrosion, and etch the surface to prepare for priming??? The Nuvite simply removes the corrosion, then provides some surface protection.
I am NOT an expert on this....so I hope others that know more will chime in here...
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11-07-2006, 12:10 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,849
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Are you removing the corrosion because you don't like the look? Removing the corrosion doesn't stop new corrosion. Actually just removing the corrosion without protecting it will probably lead to more and deeper corrosion. If you really want to protect it you should alodine it and prime it. I am even a bigger corrosion freak in that I am putting proseal between every two pieces of metal. If you visit anywhere near salt water you have to protect the metal or will it corrode quickly.
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Todd
N110TD
RV-10 Vesta V8 LS2/BMA EFIS/One formerly flying at 3J1 Hobbs stopped at 150 hours
Savannah, GA and Ridgeland, SC
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11-07-2006, 03:48 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,009
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Todd is correct in that polishing off the corrosion may only lead to further oxidation. In fact, any polishing of the alclad with an abrasive polish or scotchbrite will damage the alclad layer (which is basically a very thin layer of unalloyed aluminum) and expose the underlying material, which is more suseptible to corrosion.
When building my 9A, I subjected samples of both clad and unclad as well as alodined and zinc chromated material to ASTM accelerated salt spray testing. Without going into all of the results, I would only offer that I am surprised there is any visible corrosion on an alclad surface unless it was previously "polished". In any event, my suggestion would be to leave it alone, as final paint prep should involve a cleaning that will remove minor oxidation and at the same time etch or convert the surface to optimize paint adhesion.
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11-07-2006, 04:03 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 225
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When I was a gunnersmate in the Coast Guard we always had problems with certain people and corrosion during weapons training. Some people have acidic perspiration, which promotes a rust reaction within minutes. How many times I had to wipe the rust off of 45's after only an afternoon of use - and these were parkerized mind you...
If I were you, I'd keep as much of the blue protective plastic on the panels as long as possible, or primer the parts before assembly to avoid this problem in the future.
__________________
Kai Schumann
RV-8 Dreamer
Daily Lurker
VAF # 676
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11-07-2006, 04:54 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,849
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Keeping the blue plastic on doesn't always help. It will start to creep in on the sides. The only real corrosion you will probably see during the build process is to the alclad. Unless it takes you more than 5 years to build and and you leave the metal exposed to extreme moisture or salt air.
__________________
Todd
N110TD
RV-10 Vesta V8 LS2/BMA EFIS/One formerly flying at 3J1 Hobbs stopped at 150 hours
Savannah, GA and Ridgeland, SC
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