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  #41  
Old 03-13-2015, 08:33 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Because it was easily accessible ($11 for 6 feet) it seems to have a larger tolerance to operator error I chose to start remaking my fuel lines with the 5052. That being said I have no fear of using the 3003 now that I think I know a little more about flaring.

The flares of the 5052 look smoother/better than the 3003.


My first redo was a nice fit, hopefully the rest will be just as easy.





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  #42  
Old 03-13-2015, 09:21 PM
Zero4Zulu Zero4Zulu is offline
 
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Andy, I see there is circular line on the inside of both your flares. I would polish up the cone on you flaring tool. There might be some aluminum transferred to the forming cone. Also on the outside of the flares the sharp corner in pretty severe. I would consider breaking that edge on the flailing tool.
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  #43  
Old 03-14-2015, 06:19 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4Zulu View Post
Andy, I see there is circular line on the inside of both your flares. I would polish up the cone on you flaring tool. There might be some aluminum transferred to the forming cone. Also on the outside of the flares the sharp corner in pretty severe. I would consider breaking that edge on the flailing tool.
Now that we are to the final improvements in techniques, yes, I take my ends (took) and buffed on the fine scotcbrite wheel to eliminate tool marks. I even took some 1000 grit and polished the clamping die on my Rolo Flare (parker) .

I really don't know if it makes a big difference.

Andy, kudos for this whole process. It is clear that many others have the same flaring tool and could (or have) unwittingly done the same thing. There are just so many details to learning in a build. All of us refine techniques as we go.

The last pictures of flares look very very good. Thankfully, Vans designs are quite forgiving in many respects. It was not luck on Vans part.
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  #44  
Old 03-14-2015, 06:40 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I think I will dress up the edges on my flaring tool, big Thanks again for the advice.
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  #45  
Old 03-14-2015, 09:00 AM
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Nice work. This is also a testimate to how reliable these fittings are, even when improperly done. They usually leak well before manifesting into a more serious issue.
Great catch and good thread.
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  #46  
Old 03-14-2015, 09:07 AM
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Just to let you know you are not alone in redoing fuel lines. I had mine all done in 3003, was not particularly happy with them and subsequently redid them in 5052 before first flight. Second time around is much easier as the patterns are made.

The spec on torque/flats is here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Torq...m_Fittings.pdf
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  #47  
Old 03-14-2015, 09:48 AM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Looks mucho better!

...and I'm another who knows the pain of the fuel line replacement process on a completed airplane. I've run through a bunch of new 5052 behind the firewall, and an equal amount of stainless forward. My scrap box of 3003 and oil soaked firesleeved hose assemblies gets bigger all the time.
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Last edited by Toobuilder : 03-16-2015 at 06:49 AM.
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  #48  
Old 03-14-2015, 11:11 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Torque values

Quote:
Originally Posted by SMO View Post
Just to let you know you are not alone in redoing fuel lines. I had mine all done in 3003, was not particularly happy with them and subsequently redid them in 5052 before first flight. Second time around is much easier as the patterns are made.

The spec on torque/flats is here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Torq...m_Fittings.pdf
I am no expert so this is a serious question. I am not questioning the post or the link.
Why are the values in AC 43-13 Table 9 lower. The Vans doc mentions "high performace". Which values do we use?
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  #49  
Old 03-14-2015, 12:23 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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Default What Thickness?

I should probably add some 5052 to my list... what wall thickness are y'all using?

Thanks,
Dave
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  #50  
Old 03-14-2015, 12:32 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMO View Post
Just to let you know you are not alone in redoing fuel lines. I had mine all done in 3003, was not particularly happy with them and subsequently redid them in 5052 before first flight. Second time around is much easier as the patterns are made.

The spec on torque/flats is here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Torq...m_Fittings.pdf
Keep in mind that this chart is for hose end fittings.
The seating material in the fitting that produces the seal is much harder than the flared end of a line made from tubing (whether that be 3003 or 5052).
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