Proseal Problems

[timandmeli]

My question has to do with mixing pro-seal. I didn't mix it hot enough(not enough accelerator). The batch however has a nice dark grey color. It was B-2 and its been 24 hours. Will it cure?

[cytoxin]

just give it time. i mix mine with a kitchen scale ( 20$ or sofrom wal mart digital) just as reccomened. dont try to kick it mix it in perfect ratios..good luck

[Kyle Boatright]

My understanding is that the black component is a catylist. Put even a little in the white stuff and the mix will eventually cure.

So, to answer your question, yes, it should cure. Put it in a warm place and check on it in a couple of weeks.

[Captain_John]

Tim,

Will it cure? Hard to say without looking at it.

If this is a fuel tank you are working on (I assume so) and it is still soft enough after 24 hours to remove it with MEK I would remove it now.

You may want to give it some more time and see what happens.

B2 should be firm and not tacky after a few hours or so.

What consistency is it now? Can you describe it?

Are you using a scale?

CJ

[timandmeli]

I mixed it by volume using measuring spoons. 2 1/2 tbsp of white and i should have used 1/4 tbsp of black. However i used 1/4 tsp of black. It is tacky now. You can leave fingerprints in the mix. It has been in a cold workshop all night 50 degrees. And yes it is my first fuel tank. Tim

[MTBehnke]

I started on my second tank yesterday morning. Mixed the Proseal using a digital kitchen scale, so it's accurate to the nearest gram. My garage is a little under 50 degrees this morning. I can still leave fingerprints in the proseal, and it's very slightly tacky. I think your tank will be fine.

[Captain_John]

Tim,

Give it a couple of days and see what happens. You will likely be okay.

The black stuff is an oxidizer as previously stated and it just needs more exposure.

Tips:

Use a scale
Mix THOROUGHLY

What helped me ALOT was having a fridge nearby. When you have extra material, store it in the fridge. It will DOUBLE the working time in most cases!

I was able to butter up a rib, install and buck the rivets and then use the surplus to coat the rivet heads. Total elapsed time was well over 2 hours!

Besides, when you are done, the adult beverages are not far away!

CJ

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by timandmeli

I mixed it by volume using measuring spoons. 2 1/2 tbsp of white and i should have used 1/4 tbsp of black. However i used 1/4 tsp of black. It is tacky now. You can leave fingerprints in the mix. It has been in a cold workshop all night 50 degrees. And yes it is my first fuel tank. Tim

Tim.... do I read this right and you only used a 1/4 TEAspoon instead of a 1/4 TABLEspoon?
If so, this seems to be an error of about 3. You mixed at 30:1 by volume

The couple of data sheets I found don't even have a volume mixing ration, only a weight ratio ot 10:1.

I think your mixing error is too large for a critical item like the fuel tanks.
Do you really know what the final cured properties will be?

Remove it now before it cures (or sort of cures) and redo the joints. The last thing you want in the future is a leaking tank.

gil in Tucson

[PaulR]

I'm confused. Van's and the directions on my cans say either mix by weight or volume in a 10:1 ratio. I sure hope that's correct as I just did my first tank today.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by PaulR

I'm confused. Van's and the directions on my cans say either mix by weight or volume in a 10:1 ratio. I sure hope that's correct as I just did my first tank today.

If the can says so, it's OK.. the PRC data sheet I read only gave a weight ratio.

Because the stuff is sort of thick and gooey, I think it's hard to get an accurate volume measurement... it's not like a liquid ...Are you really 10:1?

Borrow a digital scale that reads down to 1 gram... or buy one at one of the office supply chains.... it's much easier.

gil in Tucson