Oil cooler fittings on engine?

[rightrudder]

Please confirm is the following is correct on my IO-320 D1A. I think I have it right, but it never hurts to confirm!!

Top photo: circular boss with hex plug, to the left of the red caps, is for top oil cooler line.

Top red cap is breather, lower is mechanical tach drive.

Bottom photo: circular boss with hex plug beneath oil filter is for bottom oil cooler line.

More questions:

1) Do the plan suggestions for fittings here (45 degrees top, straight out for bottom) work well? Oil cooler will be in standard spot, right rear corner.

2) Does anyone sell a cap for the tach drive, or is the red plastic cap sufficient?

Thanks!

[jrs14855]

That all looks correct. Spruce sells a cover for the tach drive. 45 would be an alternate for the lower fitting if it allows a better hose routing. Make sure to use titeseal or fuellube on the pipe threads. Install the oil pressure fitting/restrictor before you mount the engine unless you have the second port facing aft. Good idea to check the torque on all the allen head pipe plugs.

[krw5927]

All is correct. Spruce tach cap here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...clickkey=15828

A little confused by your oil temp sensor though. Looks like the copper-asbestos crush gasket that's supposed to go under it is sitting on top of it?

[rightrudder]

Thank you for the great info, guys!! Krw, I will check on the sensor...I thought that copper ring on top of the sensor was an integral part, but it could be that it is indeed the gasket, and it simply got stuck there.

[rightrudder]

Kurt, thanks for your sharp eyes. The top of the sender was a little gooey, and the gasket had stuck there. Reinstalled the right way now.

[sblack]

Sorry to be nit picking on you, but the torque seal on your mag clamps is usually put between the nut and the housing rather than the nut and the threads. It is not intended to be a thread locker, just a visual aid to tell you if the bolt is backing off. I am glad you posted this because I have to hook up my oil cooler soon and I have the same engine. Thanks

[rightrudder]

Originally Posted by sblack

Sorry to be nit picking on you, but the torque seal on your mag clamps is usually put between the nut and the housing rather than the nut and the threads. It is not intended to be a thread locker, just a visual aid to tell you if the bolt is backing off. I am glad you posted this because I have to hook up my oil cooler soon and I have the same engine. Thanks

Yeah, but if the nut doesn't move relative to the threads, I doubt the clamp or mag is going to move, provided it's torqued down correctly. It came from Lycoming this way. That said, I guess it couldn't hurt to put an extra dab where you suggest.

Good luck with your engine! I'm glad I put the fittings on before hanging the engine...it's possible to do it afterward, but access is so much easier beforehand. Those hex plugs were in there tight. I had to put some Vise Grips on the end of an Allen wrench to break them loose.

[Vlad]

Love that Lycoming grey! You are keeping the Slicks Doug? Good move!

[Walt]

Good idea to check the timing on those mags, I recall hearing of some mag timing issues from Lyc and it only takes a minute to check once the engine is installed and the prop is on.

PS: I don't give a hoot about torque seal (unless I watched it torqued and sealed personally), if it's important, then check it with a wrench.

Use steel oil fittings is the accessory case to avoid galling the threads.

[Walt]

Originally Posted by jrs14855

That all looks correct. Spruce sells a cover for the tach drive. 45 would be an alternate for the lower fitting if it allows a better hose routing. Make sure to use titeseal or fuellube on the pipe threads. Install the oil pressure fitting/restrictor before you mount the engine unless you have the second port facing aft. Good idea to check the torque on all the allen head pipe plugs.

Titeseal is good, FueLube is NOT for pipe threads!