Still dreaming about the trim, but it can become a nightmare soon...

[60av8tor]

Originally Posted by WVM

Hi Jon,

So basically you suggest to stop bending with the brake and switch over to the method VAN's explaining with the pliers? I guess it is 'just' putting the edge in between the blocks and compress it with the pliers. Or did I get it wrong?

LifeofReiley, the rod is already ditched...

Thanks

I didn't use the blocks - only the pliers. I went very slowly - bending just a bit at a time - down the length of the tab. I judged the amount of the bend by sight and, as Wirejock said, by inserting the spar in the skin. You know you have it about right when the skin lays on the spar flanges without any compression.

[WVM]

Hi,

I think that I have the intended bend now. This is what I did to correct it.

Used a 0.125 inch dowel in the hinged press to bend the skin so both sides touch each other in the corners. Calm and always monitor the dowel and the skin. Do not bend all at once, but release pressure and continue.

Then I checked with a ruler to check the result like explained with the pictures on the last page of the empennage instruction manual.

To correct the under bended area I took the skin in one hand and squeezed it between my fingers so the both sides touched each other.


Finally I put pressure on my fingers as close to the bend as possible with the other hand. When I feel that the tension is off when I release my fingers, then bend should be OK.



The final result.



What do you think? Enough of do I need to correct it more? When I now put the spar in, the upper skin is just above the spar without any pressure.

[WVM]

About the trim bend on the sides... The molds that are used to lock the skin in place, are they having a straight/sharp edge? The results of most trim tabs seems to have some larger radius. I was wondering that maybe beveling the side of the mold may be a good idea to prevent it from breaking?

[wirejock]

It looks good. The test is to cleko in the spar and lay a straight edge on it.
On the tab bending blocks, mine were sharp edge sanded smooth. The plans may have a bend radius listed. You could radius the edge to the dimension but I would shoot for a tighter radius than the target or you will end up with a bigger radius than you want.
One other posted using the back riveting plate. Pretty good idea. Try it with some scrap first.

[WVM]

Originally Posted by nzrv8

The Van's method was too complicated for my simple brain, and left too much room for error with bits of wood slipping around all over the place etc.
I used two peices of 80mm x 200mm x 8mm thick steel with 1 bolt at the outside as a clamp, and a conventional clamp inside the skin. Overkill maybe, but zero slip while bending, and nice clean bends.

Good luck - not that you will need it!

http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/hu...tml?sort=3&o=1

http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/hu...tml?sort=3&o=0

I learned by experience that it is an understatement what you told about the wood slipping around... Luckily I tried it with some scrap material.

I was planning to try your suggestion, but noticed that I have to bend the skin open to get the back rivet plate in. Did you do it before you did the final bend? I think it is best to avoid to open and close the skin too much because that's the point where I expect the trouble...

[WVM]

About two weeks ago I finally finished the trim. I used double sided tape to keep the wood in place. I pain to remove after completing the bend, but finally I noticed that ACETONE removed the glue very well.

I thought it would be nice to share the result. I am so happy that this is all over. This week I will prime all parts and put them together. Case closed. Thanks all for your help!