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10-29-2006, 09:09 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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deburring holes in tight flanges
Now that you guys have solved my problem of how to dimple holes in between tight flanges (vice grip dimpler ground down a bit, works great!), how about de-burring in those spots? My deburring tool won't get into those tight spots...
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Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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10-29-2006, 09:21 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Castaic, CA
Posts: 549
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Scotchbrite pad or small piece of sand paper. You just need to knock off the burr, not countersink it.
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Mike Sumner
Castaic, Ca
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10-29-2006, 10:50 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,061
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You really need to get one of these in 1/8 and 3/32 sizes. I built 90% of my plane without, but now that I have them I wish I'd had em sooner. They are a little expensive, but a great tool.
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Steve Zicree
Fullerton, Ca. w/beautiful 2.5 year old son 
RV-4 99% built  and sold 
Rag and tube project well under way
paid =VAF= dues through June 2013
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10-29-2006, 11:03 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
Posts: 632
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One of what Steve?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by szicree
You really need to get one of these in 1/8 and 3/32 sizes. I built 90% of my plane without, but now that I have them I wish I'd had em sooner. They are a little expensive, but a great tool.
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One of what Steve? Burraways, by any chance?
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10-29-2006, 12:32 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,061
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__________________
Steve Zicree
Fullerton, Ca. w/beautiful 2.5 year old son 
RV-4 99% built  and sold 
Rag and tube project well under way
paid =VAF= dues through June 2013
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10-29-2006, 04:17 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 305
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You can also unscrew the deburring cutter from the tool, and slip on a tight fitting short piece of flexible hose over the threads of the cutter, and use that to spin the cutter - let's you get in some places easier.
Bill
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10-29-2006, 05:49 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Correct version
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Originally Posted by szicree
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Steve... interesting reading, thanks for the link....
If you read Page 10 of the PDF file, it seems like the "standard" item they ship is not really the one we need for our RVS.
We need the light-duty spring and the zero degree rake blade for our aluminum sheet. Something to watch out for if you just go out and buy one surplus, or from a machine tool supply place....
It seems like the "standard" one they ship is for steel or SS.
gil in Tucson - this is one case for the "right tool for the job"
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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10-30-2006, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 65
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by az_gila
SWe need the light-duty spring and the zero degree rake blade for our aluminum sheet. Something to watch out for if you just go out and buy one surplus, or from a machine tool supply place....
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When I asked Cogsdill, they said the standard-duty spring is fine for our application. The actual tension on the spring can be adjusted via a set screw. Yes, we need the zero-degree, a.k.a neutral-rake blade.
A few more pieces of info:
- The burraway should be spun at about 1000 RPM, says Cogsdill.
- The 3/32" burraway is a little too loose for #40/#41 holes; the 2.5mm metric version fits much better.
- You can order directly from Cogsdill - 803-438-4000, ask for inside sales.
I love my burraways.
Regards,
Boris
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Boris Deianov
-7 wings
Mountain View, CA
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