Replacing tailwheel housing bushing

[vfrazier]

From the front page:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vans-...21827541221519

I didn't see any place to comment on this topic. If there is another thread, I hope the moderators will add this info to it.

Ken describes a problem that will eventually occur to anyone using a stock Van's tailwheel. Sooner or later, the bronze bushing will wear out. The stock Van's bushing can be a real bear to remove due to the somewhat puzzling construction that places a small flange along the top of the bushing. The flange prevents the bushing from being easily pressed out. It can be done, but you're unlikely to do it in the field.

We make a $46 replacement housing that uses a different type of bushing. We use an Igus engineering plastic bushing. They're a bit more expensive but are a dream to work with, durable, and 100% field replaceable in about 20 minutes using a few simple tools, C-clamp, and Dremel tool (to cut a new pin groove).

If you're struggling with this problem, feel free to contact us.

Alternately, consider contacting JDAir for one of their bearing housings. I have no direct experience with this part, but it certainly looks like a nicely made unit, although more expensive.

Regardless, of whose parts you're using, please remember that the locking pin to control arm interface (the little notch in the steering arm) will absolutely require periodic cleaning and greasing. There is no way out of it. It must be done or your parts will wear, gum up, and you will lose your tailwheel steering.

Conclusion: Regardless of whose hardware is hanging off of your tail, do yourself a favor and clean and grease it often. Regularly taking 10 minutes for cleaning and greasing will go a LONG way towards never having a difficult replacement job like Ken described. The replacement job is easily a day's worth of work for most guys.

[DanH]

Originally Posted by vfrazier

The replacement job is easily a day's worth of work for most guys.

It's a pleasant hour with a drill press and a band saw...2008 post:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...40&postcount=1

[vfrazier]

Dan, you know that a pleasant hour for you is a hair-pulling day of agony for most normal guys.

A lot of RVers will take a full day chasing down sharp drill bits, visiting a buddy with a band saw, going to the hardware store, calling experts for advice, ordering parts, scratching our heads, and so on.....

But it is a task that can be accomplished by mere mortals with a bit of patience and planning.

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by DanH

It's a pleasant hour with a drill press and a band saw...2008 post:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...40&postcount=1

What are the odds for you drill jig fitting someone else's stinger?
(hint, hint, like mine)

Mine is getting a bit of wear, but it still is not ready to for a new one, yet. However, when it comes time, I will have an additional challenge just getting the two bolts out. To avoid the problem that some had experienced with loose bolts and bolt shearing due to tolerance issues, I pressed in slightly oversized bolts. Pressing them out isn't going to be fun on the airplane.

[David Paule]

Vince, I haven't installed mine yet - I'm still building the wings - can I make that improvement at this stage?

Also, how long does the Igus bushing last in operation?

I've used Igus bushings before and have a lot of respect for them. Good products.

Dave

[alpinelakespilot2000]

What I don't understand is why do the tailwheel assemblies need to be match drilled to the existing holes in the stinger? Doesn't Vans have this done in a jig so that you could just buy a new predrilled tailwheel assembly and bolt it right on to your existing stinger? I'm guessing I must be misinterpreting the issue.

[DanH]

Originally Posted by JonJay

What are the odds for you drill jig fitting someone else's stinger? (hint, hint, like mine)

I dunno...are all the springs the same?

Vince is being flattering. It's so easy to do that it's not worth the shipping. Don't even need the aluminum chunk. The clamp approach Ken used would work just as well with a hardwood block. The 1" aluminum plate method from the old post is faster, because the clamp portion is two drilled holes and a hacksaw split.

[vfrazier]

David,

Sure, you can swap the parts anytime. However, before spending any hard earned dollars, consider that the stock Van's part is good for about 1000 hours with a bit of regular maintenance. How long will it take the average RVer to get to that point? So, it's up to each builder to decide what's worth "upgrading".

Steve,

Yes, Van's does match drill their assemblies, but they haven't always done so, and the match doesn't necessarily mean that parts from assembly A will match assembly B made years later. Some do, some don't. There are a LOT of assemblies out there that are builder drilled, or custom, or from completely different vendors.

Dan,

C'mon... let's post a poll and see how many RVers think they can keep up with you during one of your "easy" work sessions! Out of 30,000... maybe a handful! Nonetheless, keep up the good work. Your insights are invaluable.

[Smilin' Jack]

Dan could probably manufacture an engine from raw materials, I have heard he has a shop most of us would drew over

And some of the work I have seen him post over the last 4 years is beautiful

Jack