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  #11  
Old 01-07-2015, 07:03 AM
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I didn't see it called out specifically in previous posts and may have missed it, but are the elevator stops (F-611B spacer for down limit, F-612B angle for up limit) in place? Assuming those are in place, do you get full travel of the elevator or full travel "and then some"? Full travel without the stops is significantly more than it is with them installed as you probably know.
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Last edited by ChiefPilot : 01-07-2015 at 07:07 AM.
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2015, 07:32 AM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
 
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Originally Posted by ChiefPilot View Post
I didn't see it called out specifically in previous posts and may have missed it, but are the elevator stops (F-611B spacer for down limit, F-612B angle for up limit) in place? Assuming those are in place, do you get full travel of the elevator or full travel "and then some"? Full travel without the stops is significantly more than it is with them installed as you probably know.
The stops are all in place. The down stop is about .5 degrees short of Max, and the up stop is about 2 degrees short of Max. If I have to, I could change the down stop closer to minimum and that may eliminate the problem. However, I shouldn't have to do that unless something else is wrong. To note, I have an RV-7 tail. I am going to measure tonight to see if the elevator control horns are the same from the RV-6 to the 7.
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2015, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels View Post
The stops are all in place. The down stop is about .5 degrees short of Max, and the up stop is about 2 degrees short of Max. If I have to, I could change the down stop closer to minimum and that may eliminate the problem. However, I shouldn't have to do that unless something else is wrong. To note, I have an RV-7 tail. I am going to measure tonight to see if the elevator control horns are the same from the RV-6 to the 7.
That seems like a great next step. I have an -8 vertical on mine but the normal -6 horizontal. Something is oddly different here - looking forward to hearing about what you find!
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  #14  
Old 01-07-2015, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ChiefPilot View Post
I had the same problem on my -6A. Van's suggestion was to trim until there was no binding. I didn't need to remove much - perhaps 1/16th of an inch - and filed out the tooling marks.
I just checked my fuselage... looks like I trimmed almost 1/8 upwards and about 1/16 on the lower side of the hole.

The trimming almost, but did not, touched the 1/8 bar cross piece.
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  #15  
Old 01-07-2015, 11:30 AM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
 
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I just checked my fuselage... looks like I trimmed almost 1/8 upwards and about 1/16 on the lower side of the hole.

The trimming almost, but did not, touched the 1/8 bar cross piece.
I already trimmed the hole in F-605 quiet a bit. Ken @ Vans said that I could take more, but since the control rod is breaking the seat plane, it won't do me any good.

I just can't figure out what I may have screwed up. The Control column supports are mounted to F-604 per the plans. there is littl room for error in the bellcrank without edge distance issues.

Do you recall how much up and down deflection you have at your elevators. If less than Max, what was the limiting factor?

Thanks,

Edit: What drives me nuts on this whole thing is that my build is dang near done. All I have left is fairings, pants, wingtips, a little cowl work, and paint. I didn't anticipate a major problem with the controls.
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Last edited by WingsOnWheels : 01-07-2015 at 11:34 AM.
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  #16  
Old 01-07-2015, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels View Post

I just can't figure out what I may have screwed up. The Control column supports are mounted to F-604 per the plans. there is littl room for error in the bellcrank without edge distance issues.
Have you checked to see if there is a slight bow in the push/pull tube, and it is installed with the bow upward? That push/pull tube is a bit of a bugger to get installed.... you might have bent it very slightly while doing so.
The simplest check would be to just unbolt both ends and rotate it 180 degrees.
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  #17  
Old 01-07-2015, 04:37 PM
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Is your pushrod too short?
My pushrod rod end will almost hit the spar web with the stick in aft position.
Here is my thinking, and Scott, Gil, and others far more in the know here than I, poke some holes in this, frankly, this gets my brain a little fuzzy;

A longer push rod would shallow out the vertical travel.
I would not be concerned about weldment and bellcrank geometry or reference to each other as long as I could get full travel without any over center of the bellcrank, which would be nearly impossible given the clearances through the tunnel.
Of course a longer push rod here, means a longer push rod between the bellcrank and the elevator.
I built mine per the dimensions called out on the plans. I barely met minimum thread insertion on the rear pushrod for the rod ends, but I made it. I looked at building a new forward pushrod, but came into this exact problem you are having and realized if I shortened it to get a little more thread insertion in the back, I would be introducing other issues, like the bellcrank hitting the back of the baggage bulkhead, or perhaps the pushrod hitting the floor?
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2015, 06:49 PM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
 
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The problem i have with the forward travel of the pushrod is that the rod end contacts the inside of the yoke on the control stick weldment. Ken said i can trim a little material away from that area for clearance. That is limiting my control adjustment. A little more tweaking it may work out, but it will.still be very close.
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  #19  
Old 01-07-2015, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels View Post
The problem i have with the forward travel of the pushrod is that the rod end contacts the inside of the yoke on the control stick weldment. Ken said i can trim a little material away from that area for clearance. That is limiting my control adjustment. A little more tweaking it may work out, but it will.still be very close.
Colin - I do remember having to do this, but it wasn't quite enough before I was uncomfortable taking more material away. Is it now hitting on the shoulder of the threaded insert in the pushrod? I ended up filing a chamfer in that shoulder just at the point of contact.. I did not have to file much and I felt comfortable with this modification and did not feel it affected the overall integrity of the part. However, modifying a part like that is a personal decision and choice. Just telling you what I did.

PS - I believe it was Ken who told me about trimming away some of the yoke, many years ago. He hangared his 6 near mine, and was kind enough to take me flying in it and helped me with advice on my build many times. He would know.
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Last edited by JonJay : 01-07-2015 at 07:26 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-07-2015, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels View Post
The problem i have with the forward travel of the pushrod is that the rod end contacts the inside of the yoke on the control stick weldment.
This starts to become a problem when you adjust the control sticks to be more vertical at neutral... vs angled fwd as they are supposed to be. You are inducing this problem with your adjustments compensating for the other problem.
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