Tail Wheel Issue??

AndyRV7 · #1 12-14-2014, 10:04 AM

I went out to fly yesterday and after pulling the plane out of the hangar like I always do, I started it and began my taxi. The tail wheel was broken free of the rudder even though I was going straight and the wheel and fork where following along. I had to taxi to the FBO using brakes only to shut down and inspect the problem.

When I pull the plane out I have to turn it 90 degrees to the right for engine start. This always breaks the wheel free and I have to keep the plane straight initially with the brakes. But once the wheel locks back in place after rolling a few feet I can taxi like normal using the pedals with no brakes for ground control.

This is the first time the wheel and fork would not lock back into place after they were straight behind the plane.

Can anyone point me in the right direct? Is there a part that might need replacing?

Thanks! Andy

F1Boss · #2 12-14-2014, 10:26 AM

If all is good with the parts (no wear), a simple cleaning and re-greasing will make things right. If it still does this after cleaning, Flyboy Accys will sell you a new pin and a new arm. Might go to their website anyway for proper cleaning instructions.

This is normal tailwheel maintenance.

Carry on!
Mark

chepburn · #3 12-14-2014, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F1Boss

If all is good with the parts (no wear), a simple cleaning and re-greasing will make things right. If it still does this after cleaning, Flyboy Accys will sell you a new pin and a new arm. Might go to their website anyway for proper cleaning instructions.

This is normal tailwheel maintenance.

Carry on!
Mark

If it's cold outside, the grease on the pin can make it stick in the slot.
Mark is correct... but in winter operations (I notice you are in New Jersey)the grease can get pretty tacky, so do not overgrease. This happens to us in the great white north each year... so only a ---little--- bit of grease on that pin!

Chris

RV7Guy · #4 12-14-2014, 03:57 PM

The tail wheel area gets lots of movement and therefore requires a little TLC. While changing your oil, (about every 25 hours) put the tail up on a short saw horse. I have one cut to about 1' high.

Pull everything apart and check the pin for any burrs or edge issues. If needed file them out. I usually clean all the grease and re-grease. You can do this in under 30 minutes.

If you find the pin is in bad shape, we have them in stock at www.jdair.com. Not a bad idea to keep a spare around.

Good luck. I think you'll find after servicing you'll be back in business.

JonJay · #5 12-14-2014, 06:15 PM

This might help.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...2&postcount=16

AndyRV7 · #6 12-15-2014, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonJay

This might help.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...2&postcount=16

Thanks! I am going to order a new pin and the some lube and take care of this. Even if I don't need the pin, it will be a cheap addition to the parts drawer.

JonJay · #7 12-15-2014, 08:35 AM

Just knock off the edges of your old one on the scotch brite wheel each time you service it. You should never need a new one.

Larry DeCamp · #8 12-15-2014, 08:40 AM

Surely there is a synthetic grease for the cold weather guys ? Something like Mobile 1 0w40 in grease form. I bet construction machinery in Canada uses something effective. Can anyone suggest an option?

AndyRV7 · #9 12-15-2014, 08:54 AM

Yes, a discussion of the appropriate grease would be great too. Thanks.

Neal@F14 · #10 12-15-2014, 09:52 AM

I started using Lubriplate "Aero" to grease my tailwheel bushing and locking pin assembly. It seems to work a little better that ordinary axle grease and even though I've not yet flown in weather cold enough to have thick cold grease causing the locking pin to stick, the Lubriplate seems to be a thin enough grease to handle extreme cold temps without getting too viscous.