Airflow Performance FM-200 Air Inlet

rejnovca · #1 04-11-2005, 04:29 PM

I have an IO-360-M1 with Airflow Performance fuel injection (FM-200 controller). Using the smooth lower cowl and firewall forward kit from Vans which has a fiberglass filtered air inlet plenum made for a Bendix fuel injector ? hence flat face mating surface with four bolt holes. Several questions:
1) Has anyone modified the Vans plenum to fit the FM-200 controller? I am aware of several builders who have placed a wye on the FM inlet and used one branch for the filtered air inlet and one branch as ram air inlet. This requires adding a hole in the lower cowl and I?m looking for other solutions.
2) What is the recommended method of attaching inlet plenum to the FM-200 controller?
3) Do you have any attachment pieces that could be used to transition between the fiberglass plenum and the FM-200 inlet?
Photos and/or drawings for the above would be greatly appreciated.

Ron Jagels (RV-8A)

rv8ch · #2 10-25-2016, 07:07 AM

I have the same question - just realized that the Van's snorkel is not going to work with the AFP FM200.

Anyone have a "best and easiest" recommendation for this setup? Thanks!

DanH · #3 10-25-2016, 07:24 AM

The least complicated approach is to modify the lower end of the snorkel so it slips onto the FM200, and add a bump/blister to the lower cowl, in front of the FM200, for good clearance.

It's been done before...search is your friend.

Thinking out of the box, assuming your FM200 is new, Don at Airflow might work out a swap deal for an FM150, which is the same length as an RSA-5, and has the same flanges. It will cost you a bit less than 0.5" hg MP.

David-aviator · #4 10-25-2016, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanH

The least complicated approach is to modify the lower end of the snorkel so it slips onto the FM200, and add a bump/blister to the lower cowl, in front of the FM200, for good clearance.

It's been done before...search is your friend.

Thinking out of the box, assuming your FM200 is new, Don at Airflow might work out a swap deal for an FM150, which is the same length as an RSA-5, and has the same flanges. It will cost you a bit less than 0.5" hg MP.

Dan is right, modifying the snorkel is easiest. Cowl modification is not required.

Before that with a different engine, I modified the cowl for straight in air flow, with a filter by-pass feature. That worked well but it was a huge amount of work to get to fit together.

Dan Checkoway, an early contributor here, did some testing and found no advantage to straight in by-passed air flow over the snorkel.

The Vans snorkel is well designed and while not perfect, works very well.

Amen on the FM150, that's what I have in the 8. The 7 had FM200.

schristo@mac.com · #5 10-25-2016, 09:04 AM

I cut mine in half... fit the top and bottom independently, then rejoined them.

At the fuel meter... lop off the flange and lay up the opening for a close slip fit.

At the filter... fit and secure.

The two pieces will not align perfectly but can be adjusted easily by fingering both ends and working the shape a bit with the help of a heat gun ... tape the inside to hold it together... remove and glass and fill the outside... remove tape... glass and fill the inside.

rv8ch · #6 10-25-2016, 09:04 AM

Thanks gents. Looks like I'm going to have to break out the rubber gloves and start playing with the fiberglass.

Mark Dickens · #7 10-25-2016, 10:37 AM

Or...you can put a scoop on the cowling as I did. Bought the scoop from Rod Bower and integrated an airbox from Spectre Performance. See below:

Fits on the FM200 just fine. Funny thing is that the only other place I've seen this installation was on one of the RVs at the Reno Air Races this year. If you want more detail pics, let me know and I'll get them. I'm going to the airport tonight.

rv8ch · #8 10-25-2016, 10:43 AM

Mark, I'd love to get as many pictures as you have, that would be great!

How hard is it to remove the bottom cowl?

Just looking at your site - seems very clear and very clean. Thanks for the info.

Mark Dickens · #9 10-25-2016, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv8ch

Mark, I'd love to get as many pictures as you have, that would be great!

How hard is it to remove the bottom cowl?

Just looking at your site - seems very clear and very clean. Thanks for the info.

I made the scoop removable which helps a lot...the 3 blade prop is a bigger PITA than the scoop. Still it requires a few carefully aimed expletives to get it all in place.

The air box I used was the Spectre Performance 9833: http://www.spectreperformance.com/se...aspx?prod=9833

The best info I could find (and I'm not sure how good this is) says that the filter provides 450 CFM...seems a bit optimistic, but according to the calcs, my engine would require about 289 CFM at 2700 RPM, so I'm thinking I'm ok...that and seeing the same setup on a Reno air racer made me a little more confident that this will be fine. If you use this air box, you'll need to cut it down on both ends, but it will fit perfectly and leave clearance between the air box and the scoop for a rubber duct interface.

I'll send more pics tonight.

SuperCubDriver · #10 10-25-2016, 12:47 PM

I had the very same problem and was wondering how to make the snorkel fit the FM-200 without cutting the lower cowl. I did not find a way without a cutout. I finally exchanged the FM-200 with a FM-150 and the installation was easy because the FM-150 has the same dimensions as the Bendix servo. However the mixture lever was just touching the lower cowl and this without engine sag and movement due vibration or negative G´s. So I ended up making a bump in the lower cowl to clear the mixture lever.