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  #1  
Old 10-20-2014, 08:51 PM
Toobuilder's Avatar
Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mojave
Posts: 4,643
Default Spring Button For Stick

There was a thread concerning the spring button release in the Classifieds a few weeks ago which will be gone soon. Anyway, I was given one of these things by a generous member (MOL780) and figured I'd report my instal experience on the back seat of my Rocket.

First thing I did was to machine a tight fitting collar which when welded to the stick would provide a solid index stop so it would be easier to line this thing up. Just stick it in the socket, push down until it stops, and twist back and forth until the pin snaps into place. This stop will also take all the structural load in at least one direction. Probably not required at all, but I know how to weld, so what the heck?

Also, the hole the spring button indexes into is pretty close tolerance, as I really don't like any slop in the stick. When in place, the stick is acceptably tight. Doing this does bring up another problem however. The "foot" of the spring assembly needs to be secured to the tube. Some people just shove it in there and let friction keep it in place, but I found that after working the button a few times, the foot works it's way down the tube a little and cocks the button so it won't snap back into place. Two choices: make the hole oversize, or secure the foot. I went with the later.

Securing the foot was a mechanical and adhesive two step approach. First, I drilled a small hole opposite the button in the stick tube which was the same real estate occupied by the button's foot when in the proper position. I marked the foot with a sharpie through this hole and made a dimple on the back side with a center punch. This dimple now indexes the hole in the tube. For good measure, I put a blob of RTV to keep it where it belongs. So far, so good.

There was some discussion concerning the security of this pin, and frankly, unless something manages to push the button all the way in, I can't see it going anywhere unless there is something really funny going on. It takes a fairly concerted effort to get the pin pushed in far enough to release. That said, I made it a point to locate the pin midway in the "grip" of the socket, thinking if the stick worked back and forth in the socket, the neutral axis of this motion is the safest place for it. Finally, I can easily reinstall the standard bolt and nut for extra security.

Thanks again Gil!

Sorry the picture is sideways.


__________________
WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.

Michael Robinson
______________
Harmon Rocket II -SDS EFI
RV-8 - SDS CPI
1940 Taylorcraft BL-65
1984 L39C

Last edited by Toobuilder : 10-21-2014 at 08:42 AM.
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  #2  
Old 10-21-2014, 10:33 PM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,805
Default

Very well thought out and executed. I was going to go this route, but I ended up drilling a very a sloppy hole. The quick fix was to make a much better, larger hole and through-bolt it! But I still put in a plug to disconnect the PTT.
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RV-9A "slider"
Flew to Osh in 2017, 2018 & 2019!
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Donation made for 2020
You haven't seen a tree until you've seen its shadow from the sky -- Amelia Earhart
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  #3  
Old 10-22-2014, 12:36 PM
moll780 moll780 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 347
Default

That looks slick!I'll do the exact same thing just without the collar (i dont have access for machining or welding).
Thanks for the pic!!

Gil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toobuilder View Post
There was a thread concerning the spring button release in the Classifieds a few weeks ago which will be gone soon. Anyway, I was given one of these things by a generous member (MOL780) and figured I'd report my instal experience on the back seat of my Rocket.

First thing I did was to machine a tight fitting collar which when welded to the stick would provide a solid index stop so it would be easier to line this thing up. Just stick it in the socket, push down until it stops, and twist back and forth until the pin snaps into place. This stop will also take all the structural load in at least one direction. Probably not required at all, but I know how to weld, so what the heck?

Also, the hole the spring button indexes into is pretty close tolerance, as I really don't like any slop in the stick. When in place, the stick is acceptably tight. Doing this does bring up another problem however. The "foot" of the spring assembly needs to be secured to the tube. Some people just shove it in there and let friction keep it in place, but I found that after working the button a few times, the foot works it's way down the tube a little and cocks the button so it won't snap back into place. Two choices: make the hole oversize, or secure the foot. I went with the later.

Securing the foot was a mechanical and adhesive two step approach. First, I drilled a small hole opposite the button in the stick tube which was the same real estate occupied by the button's foot when in the proper position. I marked the foot with a sharpie through this hole and made a dimple on the back side with a center punch. This dimple now indexes the hole in the tube. For good measure, I put a blob of RTV to keep it where it belongs. So far, so good.

There was some discussion concerning the security of this pin, and frankly, unless something manages to push the button all the way in, I can't see it going anywhere unless there is something really funny going on. It takes a fairly concerted effort to get the pin pushed in far enough to release. That said, I made it a point to locate the pin midway in the "grip" of the socket, thinking if the stick worked back and forth in the socket, the neutral axis of this motion is the safest place for it. Finally, I can easily reinstall the standard bolt and nut for extra security.

Thanks again Gil!

Sorry the picture is sideways.


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--2008 RV-9A
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  #4  
Old 10-28-2014, 11:23 PM
comfortcat's Avatar
comfortcat comfortcat is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 617
Default Removable stick...

I'm not recommending this to anyone else, but I got my stick installed and I feel pretty comfortable about it. Push button to remove the stick and a two-wire molex plug. The passenger stick only has push-to-talk so I only need two wires. I'll do the trick BruceH showed with a tie wrap to fish out the wire when replacing the stick.

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David Boeshaar
RV-9A - N18TD (reserved) - Fuselage.
"My greatest fear: What if the hokey pokey really IS what its all about?"

TDAircraft.com
-July-
--------------------------------------------------
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  #5  
Old 10-30-2014, 09:19 AM
moll780 moll780 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 347
Default

what molex connector did you use?
looks nice

Quote:
Originally Posted by comfortcat View Post
I'm not recommending this to anyone else, but I got my stick installed and I feel pretty comfortable about it. Push button to remove the stick and a two-wire molex plug. The passenger stick only has push-to-talk so I only need two wires. I'll do the trick BruceH showed with a tie wrap to fish out the wire when replacing the stick.

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--2008 RV-9A
Austin TX
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  #6  
Old 10-30-2014, 03:22 PM
comfortcat's Avatar
comfortcat comfortcat is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 617
Default

Male/Female small pins, two wire. Got a spare one. Do ya want it? PM me with address and I'll send it to ya.

CC

Quote:
Originally Posted by moll780 View Post
what molex connector did you use?
looks nice
__________________
--------------------------------------------------
David Boeshaar
RV-9A - N18TD (reserved) - Fuselage.
"My greatest fear: What if the hokey pokey really IS what its all about?"

TDAircraft.com
-July-
--------------------------------------------------
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