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  #11  
Old 10-13-2014, 06:42 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.

I will describe the process if you are interested.
It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum.
Yep, that's what I did, second time came out perfect
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  #12  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:00 AM
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UnPossible UnPossible is offline
 
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Location: Granbury, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrollF4 View Post
Jason,
Please tell me more about your approach, because I have the same gap problem Mike has...and I blame Bugsy 'cause he helped me Sika the canopy.

What did you mix with the epoxy...some sort of filler? Or is it straight epoxy with cabosil? How did you level it to the same level as the canopy skin?
It has been a couple of years since I fixed this, so my memory is a bit fuzzy.... but I believe that I used strips of fiberglass near the canopy opening, then went over that with epoxy and microballoons to get to the final shape. Overall this took a night or two and really improved the fit and finish of the plane.

Hope this helps,
Jason
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  #13  
Old 02-03-2015, 10:46 AM
eatenbyagrue eatenbyagrue is offline
 
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Location: Portland, OR
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Default Canopy fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.

I will describe the process if you are interested.
It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum.
I would be very interested in hearing more about this. My gap is about 1/2" and I think I'd like to redrill.
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2015, 10:57 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan View Post
A small fillet of proseal (tank sealant) can be applied after the fact to seal the exterior gap between plexi and skin. It can also be painted if you wish.
I'm planning on a thin strip of self-adhesive foam, just like that supplied with the Duckworks lights.
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  #15  
Old 02-03-2015, 03:09 PM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
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I have ( or had ) the same problem on my canopy in the curves on the side, the top (between the hinges) was and is fine so a repositioning of the hinge points is not the fix. During construction the fit was better but I think it went awry when I installed the canopy frame reinforcement pieces.

Anyway, I obtained a metal shrinker this past weekend, practiced a bit on some spare sheet and then shrank the two curves. It is 90% better. It is a "do it a little, then test fit, do it some more, test fit" kind of thing and I ran out of time before getting it all the way done. I'll do some more in the coming weekends. It has marred the surface of the aluminum but on my practice piece I was able to remove much of the marring with a roloc scotchbrite pad and buffing wheel so maintaining a polished airplane is not out of the picture. If not, I'll paint.

My main purpose was to improve the water seal by eliminating those two "hood scoops". I've got a little more to go to get the curves fully faired into place.

Sorry, no pics to share yet. The starting point was very much like the pics previously in this thread. If I remember, I'll post when done.
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  #16  
Old 02-03-2015, 03:20 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatenbyagrue View Post
I would be very interested in hearing more about this. My gap is about 1/2" and I think I'd like to redrill.
First we should confirm where you have 1/2" gap.
A gap caused by the canopy frame skin being 1/2" above the fwd top fuselage skin probably can't be resolved by drilling new hing point holes... the holes would be drilled right on the very edge of the hinge horns (if they even hit the horn at all).
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  #17  
Old 02-03-2015, 05:24 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.

I will describe the process if you are interested.
It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum.
Another and perhaps a much easier method would be to use a new HDPE block where the frame hinge arm gets connected to. You can simply use the new block with only the hole for the hinge drilled and use a temporary short pin to connect them together in such way that they can be inserted in place. Have someone align the canopy exactly at the location you want it while you are inside and then clamp the block in its place. If you are happy with the position of the canopy, drill the two bolts that connect the block assembly to the frame.
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  #18  
Old 02-03-2015, 06:16 PM
VPYVO VPYVO is offline
 
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Second re drilling the HPPE block. I turned them around and managed to drill a hole in each just where required to drop the canopy a tad to match the fwd skin. I will get a new blocks next time I order from VANs and match drill them using first ones as templates.
Please can someone advise on an effective size and type of rubber seal for the canopy side rail to fuselage wall join.
The kit has various strips none look effective for this job.
My forward skin no longer catches the canopy fwd edge but one side has gap of nearly .25! Ideas? Struts are fitted btw. I can make another wider forward top skin (will be my fourth) and sand off .25 off the forward edge of the canopy to improve geometry? Maybe after fitting the seal mentioned above?

Regards
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  #19  
Old 02-03-2015, 06:19 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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My canopy was sitting higher than yours and it was also only one side because I didn't get the hinges quite right. I thought I was a dead man, then built it up with some balsa and fiberglass.

But, man,was it ever dispiriting



Here's a page on how I did it.

You get a lot of skills building these darned things and you can really make 'em look spiffy.



When painted, it looks more than fine. It looks great.


Yeah, the way the back of that cowling lifts is troublesome. But I've developed a good solution for that, too.

I don't look at it.
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Last edited by LettersFromFlyoverCountry : 02-03-2015 at 06:29 PM.
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