wing stand

[jkinger]

I'm getting ready to build the wings for a RV7 and was wondering what other builders are using or have used for a wing stand. I have looked at what the plans call for, but I do not want to put holes in the garage floor plus it may interfer with the garage door. I was thinking of a metal stand that has wheels so I could move it around but I am worried about keeping the wing straight. So if anyone has plans, pictures or ideas please let me know.


Jim

[Radomir]

metal one would work.. but a wood one is probably cheaper and easier to make?

2 4x4 posts resting on 2x6 (laying horizontally, across), with one long 2x6 joining the two ends. A lot of braces to hold it all steady and firm. works fine. I didn't put wheels underneath.. didn't need 'em.

have pics if you need 'em.

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Jim--

I'm at the same point--and also have been shying away from the floor to ceiling versions because I want to be able to open the garage door--especially since my wings will be built during the summer months.

The best and simplest solution so far I have found is Will's at http://wills-rv9a.com/My_Homepage_Files/Page6.html. He's got a couple pictures of different varieties, including the free-standing varieties, in the wing section of his website, plus the double-wing version that he built that is also free standing. I haven't heard how it's working, but he seems to be making good progress on his wings using it.

Mike Schipper also gave me a good pointer if you are building both wings at the same time. He originally spaced his 36" apart, but recommened that another 6" be added between them to give just a little more working room.

I don't think the wing jig is as critical for the -9 as some other varieties (so your mileage may or may not vary given that you're building a 7). When I was at Vans, Gus said the -9 wings can just be built on a flat table top if you want--the prepunching will make sure it comes out straight. That said, the wing jig still allows for better access and so I think something along the lines of Will's will be what I go with. My wing kit ships May 15-ish, so I kind of need to get going on something.

Good luck.

Steve

[n2prise]

I have the answer for you guys without drilling any holes in the concrete garage floor. You can read all about it and see pictures on this page of my web site: http://www.n2prise.org/rv9a003.htm

The wing span for the RV-7 is less than the RV-9. You guys should be able to do this. Also, this is a good time to measure the full length of your garage and compare it to the length of the airplane as shown on the prints. Someday, you will have to put the engine, prop, and spinner on the fuselage and still be able to close the garage door. You can see that picture on that same web page as well.

If you have any questions, post them here or send me an email. My email address is on the home page of the web site, and I also get mail via these postings.

Jerry K. Thorne
East Ridge, TN
RV-9A N2PZ
www.n2prise.org

[N916K]

I made a free standing one that was on wheels. I made the frame out of a double thinkness of 2x6's glued and screwed together. I put wheels on it and used angle steel to bolt the spars to it. I found it really helped being able to roll the wings around when moving things around the hanger. I had to take one wing off to rivet the top skins but you can leave both wings on when riveting the bottom skins. I made it so the the spar just fit inside the frame. Turns out it works great for a 10 wing when you move the angle to the outside of the frame.

If you need some photos send me an email.

[Captain_John]

Here is a pic of mine:



I DID go floor to ceiling, even though the height was extreme.



Hope this helps.

CJ

[N941WR]

Jim,

Check out the "Things to Consider" and "Wings & Fuel Tank" portion of my web page. There are pictures and comments. Below is cut right from the "Things to Consider" page.

Bill

Originally Posted by N941WR

I received an email asking how I managed to keep the vertical posts in alignment while I worked on the wings. This picture shows my solution. The bracket was screwed on to the bottom of my vertical 2x4 posts.

When screwing the posts together, I checked the end grain and made sure they were back to back, that way the post wouldn't warp. The end of the 2x4's should look something like this [)))][(((]. The fear of the posts warping was also the reason I didn't use a 4x4 as specified by the instructions. Initially I was going to use two "feet" on each post but after installing one and lowering the foot, the posts wouldn't move, even after someone ran into them. (I'm so happy to have those things out of the middle of my basement!)

After installing the posts and making sure they were perfectly vertical the next trick is to get the horizontal arms at exactly the same height. I accomplished this by using a long section of clear vinyl tubing about the size of a garden hose. I filled the tubing with water and worked all the bubbles out. I then duck taped one end of the hose to each vertical post. The water will seek it's own height and when it did, I measured up (or was it down?) from that "head" and marked where the horizontal arms should go. It then was a simple task to attach the arms using a standard carpenter's level to make sure they were "square".