Installing LSE direct crank sensor question

Walt · #1 10-14-2006, 05:07 PM

I am going to switch from my Hall effect module to a direct crank sensor due to the fact that I am on my 3 module, all replaced due to seal leakage. So my question to those that have done this is just how hard is it to drill and tap the holes in the case? I have a solid flange crank so it looks like an angle drill and using a tap with a wrench will be the only way to get this accomplished. Any guidance from those that have gone before me would be appreciated!

AlexPeterson · #2 10-14-2006, 07:42 PM

Walt, having just done that this past spring, I can tell you a little. I have the O-360 with C/S, so I can't speak to similarities to the other cases/cranks.

On mine, in order to get a straight shot with the drill, I had to remove one of the threaded bushing in the crankshaft flange. This was not difficult, I used a grade 8 bolt, some steel bars and a large C-clamp. Without removing the bushing, it would not have been possible. I taped the Lightspeed pickup plate in place, and using a transfer punch, put a good centerpunch drill starter dent in one of the holes. I then removed the bracket, drilled and tapped one hole. I believe the instructions state how deep to drill. Use a good quality plug tap. Use plenty of oil, and take your time. Protect the recess where the crankshaft seal is from chips. Once one hole was tapped, I bolted the bracket back on, center punched the rest and drilled/tapped.

I'd send the ring gear assembly to Klaus for drilling and fitting the magnets, as some need a little fill welding.

Good luck!

cjensen · #3 09-21-2008, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexPeterson

On mine, in order to get a straight shot with the drill, I had to remove one of the threaded bushing in the crankshaft flange. This was not difficult, I used a grade 8 bolt, some steel bars and a large C-clamp.

Did a search on this subject, and only found this one thread that related close enough to what I'm about to do...

Alex, can you elaborate a bit more on what you did to remove the bushing? It sounds easy, but I want to make sure I do it right...this is the crank afterall...

Any other threads or advise on this is appreciated!

Walt · #4 09-21-2008, 12:25 PM

When I took my flywheel off I was elated to see that ECI had already drilled and tapped these holes, everything fit together perfectly

cjensen · #5 09-21-2008, 02:07 PM

Well...as it happens, I do have an ECI motor, EXCEPT the case, which is Lycoming. All other parts are ECI...still need some advise/direction here...

breister · #6 09-21-2008, 04:33 PM

One other suggestion - use a lock-washer AND Loctite. Once installed, you should never have to remove it - but getting the spacing exactly right was a PITA. We measured over a dozen times and were SURE we were right in the "sweet spot," but no spark. Reducing the spacing by an amount equal to 1/2 of what we THOUGHT it was (and checking carefully with carbon paper to insure no scraping) resulted in perfect spacing and spark. Once that is right, lock it in good and forget about it.

cjensen · #7 09-21-2008, 06:28 PM

All I really need to know here is how to get the bushing out...anyone???

Thanks for the advise on the spacing though!

Noah · #8 09-21-2008, 08:16 PM

Hi Chad-

Use a large C-clamp and a short piece of stiff / strong tubing or pipe whose ID is slightly larger than the bushing. Use the C-clamp as a press or squeezer to push the bushing into the tubing. Just make sure the ends of the tubing are cut square. I've seen photos of this somewhere, can't find them at the moment.

AlexPeterson · #9 09-21-2008, 08:44 PM

Chad, I used a socket head cap screw of the proper thread. I screwed it into the bushing, engaging all threads, and then used a big ol' cast iron 8" c-clamp to push it out. I used also a large socket as a spacer when necessary. Used the same big bolt to pull the bushing back in. Just bring a collection of sockets, bars, spacers, etc. and it will be easy.