Strobe toggle switch issue

[GaryK]

I know there was a post some time back about the toggle switch that controls the strobe lights (Whelen style). I've searched but can't find it (thought it was Paul D) The picture someone posted showed the fast-on tab connector that looked very dark, almost burnt. The issue was the switch. Can someone repost the type of switch they replaced it with. I was under the panel this weekend and I'm seeing the same issue. The lights work fine but the switch housing is getting hot when on and the connector is dark

Thanks
Gary
N715AB
RV-7A 1150 hours.

[Pat Hatch]

Might be one of these:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...Carling+switch

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ighlight=volts

I think the consensus was there was a batch of bad Carling switches that were made in China. B&C replaced them with the ones made in Mexico. Also, the strobe power supplies are really hard on these switches.

[vlittle]

I use the TS series from Honeywell now. More money, much better switch.

The direct replacement for the Carling progressive transfer switch commonly used for master switches is the 12TS95-10.

It's not worth saving money on cheap switches. Shame on B&C for continuing to sell them even seven years after the original failure were reported. An extensive forensic analysis was performed by me and Bob Nuckolls on these switches and the conclusion is that the hollow rivets used to attach the terminals were working loose due to heat and vibration, causing thermal runaway.

[comfortcat]

Hmmmm....

The spade itself is not discolored, and the switch itself shows no sign of heat damage. Rivets are good as is the other connector.

Is this a bad crimp?

CC

Originally Posted by vlittle

I use the TS series from Honeywell now...

[vlittle]

There was a very long and thorough analysis done on this topic years ago and I don't want to rehash it again. What you see is a switch failure. The hot switch burnt the terminal wire.

I have had four separate switch failures all caused by loose switch rivets. As soon as the rivet corrodes or is stressed, it increases in resistance, leading to overheating.

Armchair quarterbacks may disagree, but the technical analysis was conclusive. Honeywell switches are fine.

Use the famous internet search engine to find "aeroelectric carling switch failure". Popcorn advisable.

[Paul Eckenroth]

I experienced the hot strobe switch about 5 years and 600 hours ago. Removed the switch and found the tabs were loose on the rivets. Buffed the rivet- tabs bright and soldered the tabs to the rivet. Reinstalled and no more hot or warm switch. Did the same on the rest of the switches to be proactive.

Paul

[GaryK]

Thanks to all for the info.

The issue will be resolved soon.

Gary

[PaigeHoffart]

I had Mexican Carling switches fail on me (loose rivets). Replaced with NKK brand. So far, so good (~150 hours on the NKKs).

Paige

[Boyd Birchler]

There must be something unusual about switching the load for strobes!
My stobes had been causing noise in the intercom so I left them off except in high traffic areas.

On the way back to Indianapolis from Sun N Fun to Indianapolis I stopped at KCTJ/ West Georgia Regional. Upon approaching the airport I turned the strobes on and did not notice an increase in amperage on the load meter. We refueled and I got in the plane and turned the strobes on while Judy was out side and saw that they were operating. WE left KCTJ with the stobes off. When we neared Chattanooga's airspace I turned the strobes back on. A few minutes later I need to fix my jacket because It was bunched up behind me, as I reached under the bottom edge of the panel to pull myself forward, the tip of my second finger touched the connector on the strobes toggle switch, it was so hot it burned me!

I replaced the switch because it had failed in the same manor as others here have reported. The Carling switch's riveted terminals had loosened causing very high resistance. I replaced the switch with a screw terminal lug type switch (rather than spade type) and of more amperage (20 instead of 15 amp). I checked all of the other switches and found no other loose terminals.

I ask again: What is different about the switching load of a strobe system?