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  #11  
Old 07-29-2014, 06:20 PM
woodsideraff woodsideraff is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 124
Default Drilling out a smiley

One technique that has worked for me is to drill all the way through from the shop head with a small (#50) drill. You should come out the other end near the center.

Now, use the small hole to guide a #30 drill and drill deep enough to snap off the head. You can then either punch the rivet out or, better still, use a pair of dykes to work it out from the other end.
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  #12  
Old 08-04-2014, 02:07 PM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 414
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Jim, how did the rivet extraction go?
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  #13  
Old 08-05-2014, 11:46 PM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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Hey Tom,

Just got off work today (I work 12 hour shifts 7 days on 7 days off). I have the skins on to match drill and CS. Hoping to have it worked out by Thursday. I will definitely let you all know how it went.

Jim
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  #14  
Old 08-06-2014, 06:48 PM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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I tried using a cutting wheel to grind off he manufactured head. It was impossible to get to without bumping into the rib or flanges so I put my big boy pants on and decided to give drilling the shop head a try again. I'm happy to say I got it out without any damage to the hole or doubler.

Thanks for the help all.

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  #15  
Old 08-06-2014, 07:02 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Nice work.

I have some tiny ball ended carbide burrs from my dremel. I picked them up at OSH a few years back, but after need one, it would be worth full price.

The tiny little unit is much easier to keep under control in tight quarters.

Again - nicely done.
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