White Cowl

[az_gila]

For those of you who used the original white gel-coated cowls.

Any hints on what worked well, or didn't work well, for the inner attachment on the short area just behind the spinner?

What size screws? How many?

Fiberglas only, or a metal plate?

I've got mine pretty well pulled into shape and now need to work out attachments.

[revenson]

I used 6-32 countersunks. Two each side, but I've seen folks using only 1. No metal backing for the nutplates, but not a bad idea. So far (400 hrs), so good.

[Bill Dicus]

I used 6-32 flat head with large area countersunk washers, three per side. Seems solid, easy to insert and remove screws.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by revenson

I used 6-32 countersunks. Two each side, but I've seen folks using only 1. No metal backing for the nutplates, but not a bad idea. So far (400 hrs), so good.

Thanks Roger, but you didn't have the early white polyester cowl did you?

[plehrke]

Originally Posted by Bill Dicus

I used 6-32 flat head with large area countersunk washers, three per side. Seems solid, easy to insert and remove screws.

Same but I used #8 screws and mounted plate nuts to a metal strip that was riveted and prosealed to the fiberglass cowl. I did have white cowl.
I used short grip screws as the aft one is a bit lined up with the starter ring. Maybe watch that when locating holes.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by plehrke

Same but I used #8 screws and mounted plate nuts to a metal strip that was riveted and prosealed to the fiberglass cowl. I did have white cowl.
I used short grip screws as the aft one is a bit lined up with the starter ring. Maybe watch that when locating holes.

Thanks... do you have the short (2.25 inch spacer) or the long (4 inch spacer) cowling?

[airtractor8]

My -6 was a 93' kit with the same white cowl. To start with I followed the plans and fitted the closed loop hing in that position. Well you guessed it,that lasted all of 30hrs and broke into little pieces. Then I tried making some plates from .062 with four #6 screws and nuts on the bottom in the old rivet holes and three # 8 screws and nut plates in the top like this https://picasaweb.google.com/airtrac...67348101598354. That lasted a little while longer but both sides eventually cracked and broke again (twice ). Then I broke down and resorted to that "other" material (fibreglass)and have had no more problems in 200hrs of flying. I copied the plate idea I had used for the .062 but made them from the left over fibreglass strip I had removed to fit the lower cowl carb scoop like we had to do in those days.

[Ironflight]

HI Gil,

"Mikey" is kit #4 - I don't know what color the cowling is underneath the paint, but I think it is what you're looking for. He's got aluminum plates - .064 - that are riveted to top or bottom (can't remember which) and has 2 #8 screws/nutplates on each side. We've had to replace them once since I've been involved with the airplane. If I were building new, I'd probably go with glass flanges.

[RVDan]

I had/have the old cowl and recall that in the early days there were lots of problem in this area. Used alum back plate for the nutplates and 3 #8 fasteners with CS washers. Works great and over 1000 hrs.

[49clipper]

I am in annual at this time and was considering two quarter turn fasteners here. My origianl springs are holding up fine, but looking for a neater, quicker approach. any reason for not doing this?
Jim
RV-6 O-320