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  #1  
Old 10-05-2006, 01:11 AM
Rene Bubberman's Avatar
Rene Bubberman Rene Bubberman is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Delft, the Netherlands
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Default Fuel Tank Service bulletin

Hello group,

Last night I started (at last) on the Service Bulletin about the fuel tank. No big deal in itself but I got confused when I started to remount the cover plates. On our QB tanks there is only a cork gasket, can I just reinstall the plates or do I have to Pro-Seal them? If so should I remove the cork gasket? How much ProSeal shall I need for this ?
I also use the standard rubber gasket for sealing the fuel float sender. Somebody warned me that I should also use Proseal for this. Any opinions about that? You understand that I do not want to loose Gas at these prices!
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PH-VII | RV-7 | tip-up | FADEC
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  #2  
Old 10-05-2006, 01:52 AM
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AntiGravity AntiGravity is offline
 
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Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
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Default I used proseal

...beacuse after reading dozens of posts I came to the conclusion that:-

a) those that use just the cork gasket will eventually have a leak, its a matter of time.
b) prosealed cover plates aren't that hard to remove if you ever need to
c) I hope I never need to!!

When I prosealed the covers in place I smoothed a layer around the plate (not the rib) that covered about a half inch all the way around, including over the screw holes. Then I fitted it, and torques down the scews after dipping each screw in proseal. The proseal oozed out around the edges of the plater forming a kind of 'lip'. They don't leak, and frankly I doubt they ever will. Of course, whether I can actually get them off again later is something I'll find out...later, though I hope I never have to! (various posters assure that they aren't that dificult to remove)

Cheers,
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Hamilton, New Zealand
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  #3  
Old 10-05-2006, 04:11 AM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
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Location: NC25
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Default

I just did the SB on an RV-6A for a buyer that I did the pre-purchase inspection.

The airplane was 10 years old and it was the FIRST RV that I have seen that had gaskets that did not leak on one side. The right tank was leaking at the gasket around the fuel sender but the one to the wing rib did not leak.

I would like to recommend that you use ALLEN HEAD screws instead of the Phillip (cross head) screws shown in the plans. If you use Proseal to install the covers with fillets aound the covers and screws, the Allen Head screws will be able to come out with less work.
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  #4  
Old 10-05-2006, 05:23 AM
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pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
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Location: Louisville, Ga
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Default Yes

Gary is right on the money....using allen head screws dipped in proseal. I had a fuel sender leak and was advised to not even use the rubber gasket and that's what I did. Be sure and coat both the tank and the sender or plate and screw down.

Using the cork gasketAND proseal on both sides of it, enables you to later sacrifice the gasket in the event you ever need to remove it.

One tip...the screws on the float sender are not evenly spaced, so make a black magic marker mark from the plate to the tank to help re-align it when you go to replace it,
Regards,
Pierre
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RV-10, 510 TT
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  #5  
Old 10-05-2006, 07:13 AM
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Default

I've done quite a few of these. I use only pro-seal and allen head screws. I've never had a leak and never had trouble getting them off. The only leaks I have encountered were where the cork gaskets were used.
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2006, 12:12 PM
Rene Bubberman's Avatar
Rene Bubberman Rene Bubberman is offline
 
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Location: Delft, the Netherlands
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Default

Thanks a lot for this advise guys!
As for the screws: I guess stainless steel Torx #8 screws are ok too? Do you have any idea what quantity ProSeal is needed for this operation (Plate AND fuel sender)?
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PH-VII | RV-7 | tip-up | FADEC
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  #7  
Old 10-05-2006, 12:47 PM
DGlaeser DGlaeser is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 878
Default Titeseal

I'm using Titeseal with the cork gaskets instead of ProSeal with no gaskets. I originally ProSealed my covers on (no gaskets) - but then the SB came out (I'm still building, wings not yet installed). Removing the Prosealed covers wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but it wasn't super easy and I also had unrestricted access. I think removing them if the wings were installed would have been much tougher. I decided to reinstall with Titeseal and the cork gaskets to simplify any potential future (installed) removals.
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Rochester Hills, MI
RV-7A - Eggenfellner H6, GRT Sport ES, EIS4000, 300XL, SL30, TT Gemini, PMA6000, AK950L, GT320,
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  #8  
Old 10-05-2006, 03:56 PM
sf3543 sf3543 is offline
 
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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Default

A glob of proseal about the size of a golf ball should do both sides. A little more if you think you need to slather it all over everything.
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  #9  
Old 03-10-2009, 03:52 PM
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Location: Lake Country, B.C. Canada
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Default leaky sender plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
I've done quite a few of these. I use only pro-seal and allen head screws. I've never had a leak and never had trouble getting them off. The only leaks I have encountered were where the cork gaskets were used.
Mel,
I'm not a builder, but have to seal 4 of the 5 screws on my right tank, as they are seeping fuel. Apparently they were globbed with PRC on the inside, but somehow it didn't work on all of them!
Once I drain the tank, and pull the screws, I want to be able to have it buttoned up that same day.
Can you tell me what size screws I need to order, stainless Torx I think was recommended, but are they #8-20 x 1" or some such thing?

appreciate if you don't recall, I'll look again at the plans,

thx

Perry
RV-9a
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  #10  
Old 03-10-2009, 05:05 PM
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miyu1975 miyu1975 is offline
 
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Default

What does this mean to someone who, like me, has wings on order and will building tanks in say a few months.???
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RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
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