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  #11  
Old 06-27-2014, 08:32 AM
Tim 8-A's Avatar
Tim 8-A Tim 8-A is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Colleyville
Posts: 299
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I wasn't originally on board with the Plane Around third latch system, my door was closing just fine with the factory set up. If the doors are fully latched they are safe with or without the third latch. What the Plane Around latch system did for me is take it from a two hand operation to a one hand operation. With the Plane Around third latch I no longer have to reach behind the seat pulling in the back corner of the door, making it much more fool prove in my opinion.
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Colleyville, Tx
RV8a Purchased flying (many changes) Sold
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G3X/Dynon/TT
All new interior complete.
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  #12  
Old 06-27-2014, 12:48 PM
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Mike D Mike D is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 456
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Thanks for the reply everyone.
Please don't think I am not implementing the great features of the Plane Around solution. I am just doing it in a different way to solve for the parts that I don't like. This is experimental, so I am experimenting.

I should mention I am a industrial designer in my day job. So I am always considering the human factors and user experience elements of what I am doing. The Plane Around system does solve the issue, just not as elegant as I want it to be. Not being a perfectionist, but just building the plane I want.

I really like Mike's solution to the rack stops. I may implement this even though I could use the stock solution. I like that a flat surface is meeting another flat surface but I need to think about the force direction change.

The gap I am measuring is from the seal to the inside door skin. There will be some gap reduction when the door is assembled and trimmed, but I have a lot more gap than that.

Some days I think it is just too easy, and other days I have know idea how anyone does this. (building a -10)
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RV6A -O-320, fixed pitch, GRT Sport, 496
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Houston
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  #13  
Old 06-28-2014, 06:07 AM
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Freightdawg Freightdawg is offline
 
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Location: New Albany, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Some days I think it is just too easy, and other days I have know idea how anyone does this. (building a -10)
So it's not just me.
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  #14  
Old 06-28-2014, 10:38 AM
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CharlieWaffles CharlieWaffles is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: West Linn, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
T

The gap I am measuring is from the seal to the inside door skin. There will be some gap reduction when the door is assembled and trimmed, but I have a lot more gap than that.
It's not unusual to have that and when using the McMaster seal you will often have to build up the flange so that the seal is the proper distance from the door. Some places I had to grind down, others I had to build up. Once the distance to the door is right, you can grind down/build up the backside of the flange so that it is the proper thickness to hold the seal.
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  #15  
Old 06-29-2014, 06:28 AM
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Mike D Mike D is offline
 
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Location: Houston, TX
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Mark, Thanks! I will need to adjust the door flange for sure. Just worry about modifying the top too much.
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Michael Delpier
RV6A -O-320, fixed pitch, GRT Sport, 496
RV-10 - working on finish kit
Houston
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  #16  
Old 06-29-2014, 10:24 AM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Mark, Thanks! I will need to adjust the door flange for sure.
That, my friend, is the understatement of all time........

I really got to hate those doors
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Mercy Air, White River FAWV
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  #17  
Old 06-29-2014, 02:48 PM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
 
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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The reveal between the inner door skin and the seal edge should be no less than 1/4 inch. That's if you are using either the 1120A311 or 1120A411 door seal from McMaster.
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  #18  
Old 06-29-2014, 11:24 PM
Jackm Jackm is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Prosser,WA
Posts: 272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
I have considered the Plane Around latch. But I am not completely happy with their design. So for now I am going to "roll my own" center door latch.

I am using the McMaster Carr seals, but there is too much gap. I have not joined the door skins yet, but there is more than 1/4" gap in places. This wont be taken up when the door is joined and trimmed. There is a larger seal available, but I don't want to go that way because I would not be happy with the look.

Just a little picky I guess.
Mike,

All advice above is excellent. I would add two things if you have not glued the doors yet. One is install the third latch before gluing the doors together as I believe Bill Peyton has done. And two. DO NOT use the dimple index on the skins from Vans...build spacers for the door to be set in, to correctly locate the door in the cabin top frame. There are a number of RV10 doors that sit too low in the cabin top including ours, because of the dimple not being in correct location. The result of being low is a very small flange on lower door and having to trim the cabin top down for Sean's latch to clear. Also, If I had to do my doors over, I would glue them with the Lord adhesive from Aerosport Products.
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