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  #1  
Old 06-12-2014, 08:14 PM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
Question what type solder or flux do you use?

Finding some of the wires in Dynon's Skyview 37 wire harness are not long enough to go to the fuel tank sensors. I'll have to splice in some 22 awg wire. Is there a preferred solder or solder flux combo? Diameter Size solder? I have the 25 watt iron.

Thanks Guys
Ron in Oregon.
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2014, 08:22 PM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is offline
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Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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Default

Rosin core, no additional flux.

Around 0.050---.062" diameter is good.
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

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  #3  
Old 06-12-2014, 08:27 PM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Size doesn't matter. Or so I've heard. The .062 stuff is pretty big, though; I like to use something a little smaller diameter. The easiest to work with is probably 63/37 tin/lead rosin core. I'm using no-lead no-clean these days, but that's mainly because I ship a lot of stuff to EU countries and they care about it. If you only need a small amount and not the 1# rolls I buy, just pick up some rosin core at Rat Shack or the Lowes/Home Depot aviation aisle.

The one hard & fast rule is -- never use acid flux. Ever.
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Omaha, NE
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2014, 08:56 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
Default Solder

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleB View Post
Size doesn't matter. Or so I've heard. The .062 stuff is pretty big, though; I like to use something a little smaller diameter. The easiest to work with is probably 63/37 tin/lead rosin core. I'm using no-lead no-clean these days, but that's mainly because I ship a lot of stuff to EU countries and they care about it. If you only need a small amount and not the 1# rolls I buy, just pick up some rosin core at Rat Shack or the Lowes/Home Depot aviation aisle.

The one hard & fast rule is -- never use acid flux. Ever.
Agree.
I have a 1/2 lb roll of .026", 22 ga, I've had it forever. I can't remember where I got it. It's a good size because it melts easy and I can unroll a bunch so the roll can sit on the bench. After, just roll it back up.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
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Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #5  
Old 06-13-2014, 04:05 AM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
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Location: Asheville, NC
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Default

I like the smaller stuff for fine wire work too. Rosin core eutectic (63/37). I inherited some 2% silver I use sometimes.

Since you are asking the solder question, here is a guide for how to do the mechanical part of making a nice smooth solder joint from Aeroelectric. I like it better than the double hook loop method.

Splice

One thing is not shown and that is...if you are joining several wires, don't put the joints all at the same spot. Stagger them so that your harness does not look like a snake that just swallowed a rat.

That will help make the harness a bit more robust.

Good luck!
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ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2014, 04:31 AM
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Michael White Michael White is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cartersville, Georgia KVPC
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Bill,
Thanks for the link and the tip. Never heard of the "tease one strand out and wrap it around the joint" method. Will have to try that on my next model.

Ron,
After 30+ years of messing around with R/C models (and their 22-26 ga. wires), I also have found that smaller is better (well, with solder anyway). Like Wirejock, I also have a roll of 22 ga. solder that I've had for years. I got it from my Dad, who had also had it for years. At the slow rate I'm using it, I'll need a son to pass it along to...
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  #7  
Old 06-13-2014, 06:26 AM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
Posts: 1,065
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The elfin-safety weenies in Europe have banned lead solder. I had an awful job trying to get the lead-free rubbish to flow properly. On a visit to the States, I got some proper stuff from Radio Shack ....

Oh, and its "Sol-der" not "Sod-der" - there's an "L" in it...........
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2014, 09:23 AM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,805
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Kester is a good brand. Soldering is pretty satisfying when you make a nice shiny joint. Also, fingers make terrible heat sinks, but sometimes you have to just suck it up, and hold the work together until that little blob of molten metal solidifies!
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RV-9A "slider"
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  #9  
Old 06-13-2014, 09:39 AM
az_gila's Avatar
az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
Thumbs up Another option

Instead of solder, use a D-Sub crimp pin and socket combination.

Add a small section of clear heat shrink over the connected pair to provide insulation, strain relief and holding the connectors together. If you ever need to break the connection just slice the heat shrink away.
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  #10  
Old 06-13-2014, 09:46 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
Default I agree!

Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Instead of solder, use a D-Sub crimp pin and socket combination.
Add a small section of clear heat shrink over the connected pair to provide insulation, strain relief and holding the connectors together. If you ever need to break the connection just slice the heat shrink away.
This is by far the best solution. A good crimp is always better than solder.
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EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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