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06-12-2014, 08:14 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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what type solder or flux do you use?
Finding some of the wires in Dynon's Skyview 37 wire harness are not long enough to go to the fuel tank sensors. I'll have to splice in some 22 awg wire. Is there a preferred solder or solder flux combo? Diameter Size solder? I have the 25 watt iron.
Thanks Guys
Ron in Oregon.
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06-12-2014, 08:22 PM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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Rosin core, no additional flux.
Around 0.050---.062" diameter is good.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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06-12-2014, 08:27 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,246
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Size doesn't matter. Or so I've heard. The .062 stuff is pretty big, though; I like to use something a little smaller diameter. The easiest to work with is probably 63/37 tin/lead rosin core. I'm using no-lead no-clean these days, but that's mainly because I ship a lot of stuff to EU countries and they care about it. If you only need a small amount and not the 1# rolls I buy, just pick up some rosin core at Rat Shack or the Lowes/Home Depot aviation aisle.
The one hard & fast rule is -- never use acid flux. Ever.
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Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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06-12-2014, 08:56 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
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Solder
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleB
Size doesn't matter. Or so I've heard. The .062 stuff is pretty big, though; I like to use something a little smaller diameter. The easiest to work with is probably 63/37 tin/lead rosin core. I'm using no-lead no-clean these days, but that's mainly because I ship a lot of stuff to EU countries and they care about it. If you only need a small amount and not the 1# rolls I buy, just pick up some rosin core at Rat Shack or the Lowes/Home Depot aviation aisle.
The one hard & fast rule is -- never use acid flux. Ever.
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Agree.
I have a 1/2 lb roll of .026", 22 ga, I've had it forever. I can't remember where I got it. It's a good size because it melts easy and I can unroll a bunch so the roll can sit on the bench. After, just roll it back up.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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06-13-2014, 04:05 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,690
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I like the smaller stuff for fine wire work too. Rosin core eutectic (63/37). I inherited some 2% silver I use sometimes.
Since you are asking the solder question, here is a guide for how to do the mechanical part of making a nice smooth solder joint from Aeroelectric. I like it better than the double hook loop method.
Splice
One thing is not shown and that is...if you are joining several wires, don't put the joints all at the same spot. Stagger them so that your harness does not look like a snake that just swallowed a rat.
That will help make the harness a bit more robust.
Good luck!
__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
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06-13-2014, 04:31 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cartersville, Georgia KVPC
Posts: 945
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Bill,
Thanks for the link and the tip. Never heard of the "tease one strand out and wrap it around the joint" method. Will have to try that on my next model.
Ron,
After 30+ years of messing around with R/C models (and their 22-26 ga. wires), I also have found that smaller is better (well, with solder anyway). Like Wirejock, I also have a roll of 22 ga. solder that I've had for years. I got it from my Dad, who had also had it for years. At the slow rate I'm using it, I'll need a son to pass it along to... 
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Moose
VAF #136
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06-13-2014, 06:26 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
Posts: 1,065
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The elfin-safety weenies in Europe have banned lead solder. I had an awful job trying to get the lead-free rubbish to flow properly. On a visit to the States, I got some proper stuff from Radio Shack ....
Oh, and its "Sol-der" not "Sod-der" - there's an "L" in it...........
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Paul
Mercy Air, White River FAWV
RV-10 ZU-IIZ - "Zeus"
Building Bearhawk Bravo - RV-18 not available
2019 Donation Made
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06-13-2014, 09:23 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,805
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Kester is a good brand. Soldering is pretty satisfying when you make a nice shiny joint. Also, fingers make terrible heat sinks, but sometimes you have to just suck it up, and hold the work together until that little blob of molten metal solidifies!
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Doug
RV-9A "slider"
Flew to Osh in 2017, 2018 & 2019! 
Tail number N427DK
Donation made for 2020
You haven't seen a tree until you've seen its shadow from the sky -- Amelia Earhart
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06-13-2014, 09:39 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Another option
Instead of solder, use a D-Sub crimp pin and socket combination.
Add a small section of clear heat shrink over the connected pair to provide insulation, strain relief and holding the connectors together. If you ever need to break the connection just slice the heat shrink away.
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Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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06-13-2014, 09:46 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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I agree!
Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
Instead of solder, use a D-Sub crimp pin and socket combination.
Add a small section of clear heat shrink over the connected pair to provide insulation, strain relief and holding the connectors together. If you ever need to break the connection just slice the heat shrink away.
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This is by far the best solution. A good crimp is always better than solder.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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