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  #21  
Old 06-15-2014, 09:37 AM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
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The sealant spoons might be the right tool for the job for fileting the sealant. I found that popsicle sticks that I got from a craft store were a little too big for the rib filets. At work we have wooded coffee stirs and those worked much better.

This stuff is a mess and there is just no getting around that part. I did it all wet and survived. Buy lots of disposable gloves so you can keep changing them. I got the hint of wearing two pair on top of each other.
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  #22  
Old 06-15-2014, 03:49 PM
compren compren is offline
 
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Hey folks, just want to thank everyone for all the suggestions and experiences. I started sealing the tanks yesterday and decided to take it slow and just proseal on the retaining ring on the inboard rib. After that exercise I came away with even more questions and am again seeking forum assistance

I ran into some issues with squeezing the rivets. For the life of me I could not avoid cleating over way too many rivets. Anyone else have this difficulty? Anything I need to know when it comes to bucking slickery rivets?

At what point can I apply more proseal on top of the existing stuff? I see a couple spots that I'd like to see more proseal in, but should I wait 3-5 days for the stuff to cure fully, or is it ok to add more at any time? I also need to put some over the new rivets I drilled out and replaced this morning and don;t want to add more proseal prematurely.

Thanks again...

-John
Spring, TX
RV-7 (Wings)
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  #23  
Old 06-15-2014, 04:12 PM
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rmartingt rmartingt is offline
 
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Location: Savannah, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compren View Post
I ran into some issues with squeezing the rivets. For the life of me I could not avoid cleating over way too many rivets. Anyone else have this difficulty? Anything I need to know when it comes to bucking slickery rivets?
I've noticed I tend to bend rivets much more often when squeezing instead of bucking. I'd just buck them. Also, you need not seal the retaining ring; all possible leak paths will be covered when you put the access cover on.

Quote:
At what point can I apply more proseal on top of the existing stuff? I see a couple spots that I'd like to see more proseal in, but should I wait 3-5 days for the stuff to cure fully, or is it ok to add more at any time? I also need to put some over the new rivets I drilled out and replaced this morning and don;t want to add more proseal prematurely.
I'm pretty sure you can just add more at any time. I tried to do it all at once--if I riveted something in and it needed more sealing, I mixed up a bit more sealant and applied it right then.
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  #24  
Old 06-16-2014, 08:46 AM
Maxrate Maxrate is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: League city, TX
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Quote:
I received the access door sealant in the mail from Skygeek. $19.89 shipped to my door. The product number again is CS 3330 B-2. I cut the tube in 1/2 and mixed it 100 to 10 as instructed. I don't have the other tank ready to close up yet so I put the rest in the fridge. This stuff mixes like the vans tank sealant but sets up rather quickly. After buttering up the opening, I put the access door in place and dipped each screw in the sealant and screwed it down. The next morning it had a hard rubbery feel and had obviously set up. I then proceeded to test the tank for 24HRS in the house at 74deg F. This morning I woke up and the needle on my low pressure gauge had not moved off 1.3 PSI. The interesting difference between this product and standard tank sealant is how easily it is able to strip off a scrap of sheet metal. It dries like a rubber gasket that is perfectly formed to the two mating surfaces. There would only be about 10 minutes to completely strip this product and move on to fixing the issue that caused you to have to open up the tank in the first place.

Worth 20 bucks? Absolutely in my honest opinion.
From a prior post of mine when I closed the door on my tanks.

Good luck!
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