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06-05-2014, 05:35 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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K1000-3 with AN4 rivets?
I countersunk too deep on some holes that are used to attach a K1000-3 nutplate. I am trying to find out if there is a direct replacement that has AN4 attachment holes instead of AN3. Does anyone have this part number.
Thanks,
Jim
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06-05-2014, 06:01 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 1,210
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drill them up to 1/8
I have done it plenty of times, and it will be fine to drill the 3/32 holes up to 1/8. They have no function other than to hold the plate in place and prevent rotation. When you drill them, the cad plating will be removed, so its a good idea to swab the holes with primer before installing.
__________________
Bill E.
RV-4/N76WE
8A7 / Advance NC
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06-05-2014, 09:02 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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Thanks Bill. I didn't even think about drilling them out as it looks pretty thin already. I'll just drill them out.
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06-05-2014, 11:21 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Peoria, Az
Posts: 148
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RE: K1000-3 nutplate rivet
You might consider using MK-319-BS pulled rivets for the nutplate. The hole for the rivet is 7/64" dia which is slightly larger than the normal 3/32 dia solid rivet.
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James
RV6 N947J
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06-05-2014, 03:31 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,246
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There's a Cherry rivet for platenuts which is supposedly better because it avoids the possibility of the rivet eventually breaking due to getting stressed/stretched/cut by the platenut when inserting/removing screws; I think it's a steel rivet or something like that...rather than relatively soft aluminum.
The ones I've used are 3/32, but there's no doubt an equivalent in the larger size. Don't have the Cherry number handy, though...check ACS.
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06-05-2014, 04:48 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7A Flyer
There's a Cherry rivet for platenuts which is supposedly better because it avoids the possibility of the rivet eventually breaking due to getting stressed/stretched/cut by the platenut when inserting/removing screws; I think it's a steel rivet or something like that...rather than relatively soft aluminum.
The ones I've used are 3/32, but there's no doubt an equivalent in the larger size. Don't have the Cherry number handy, though...check ACS.
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The suggested MK 319-BS rivet is monel/steel, not relatively soft aluminum.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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06-05-2014, 05:27 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,246
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OK, OK...I wasn't arguing with anyone, just noting that there are Cherry rivets that would work (and some for 3/32 holes, as well).
Sorry.
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06-05-2014, 06:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7A Flyer
OK, OK...I wasn't arguing with anyone, just noting that there are Cherry rivets that would work (and some for 3/32 holes, as well).
Sorry.
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In this case, the drilling out of the nutplate hole for a 7/64 MK 319-BS (0.109 inch) rivet is quite negligible.
The K1000-3 rivet hole is already oversize for a 3/32 rivet at 0.098 to 0.103 inch diameter.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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06-05-2014, 11:47 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
In this case, the drilling out of the nutplate hole for a 7/64 MK 319-BS (0.109 inch) rivet is quite negligible.
The K1000-3 rivet hole is already oversize for a 3/32 rivet at 0.098 to 0.103 inch diameter.
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Yeah, I recall drilling out one or two somewhere on the build...don't recall exactly where, but it was almost not even a visible difference. I don't even remember why I had to do it, but it worked fine...
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06-06-2014, 11:28 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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The nut plate sits at the base of the spar so it is going through all the doublers. I think drilling out for a AN4 is my best bet as the grip length is pretty long. I think it is requiring a -6 if I remember correctly.
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