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Old 05-01-2014, 01:14 PM
digidocs's Avatar
digidocs digidocs is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: -
Posts: 544
Question Push pull cable end help?

I think I understand how this type of push pull cable end works:

...but I'm not sure I've cracked this one yet. How do you assemble it?

And the real question is, which do you recommend for the end of a parking brake cable?

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Old 05-01-2014, 01:20 PM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is offline
Senior Curmudgeon
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 16,096

I used this one on my 10. You may have to use extra washers-----you want to get as much of the slop out of the shank as you can without binding.

Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:10 PM
JimS JimS is offline
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mosinee,WI
Posts: 72
Default Second connector would be...

Bolt through hole in arm you are going to control
Washer on the bolt next
Wire from cable control through hole
Second washer
First nut tightened up against washer pinching control cable in the hole
Second nut as a jam nut against the first
Built and flying a Kitfox IV / 912
Bought and flying an RV-6 / 0-320 FP slider
Built and maintaining a 1800' grass runway

Last edited by JimS : 05-01-2014 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:44 PM
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grjtucson grjtucson is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 187
Default B-Nut Better

The first is a standard B-Nut and the cable is held by the set screw.

The second pinches the cable between the head/washer and a washer/nut and is locked by a 2nd nut.

My trouble with the second is that it doesn't swivel. Unless the travel of the control arm and the push/pull are aligned, it won't function without binding. This seems to be for most installations, particularly my parking break and my heater. If there were room for a nut/washer between the head and the hole I think it would work.

I went with B-Nuts.

Hope this helps.

George Jenson -
Tucson, AZ - N567AJ RV-7 Standard Build
Empennage Completed 1/06, Wings Completed 11/06, Fuselage Done 9/08, Panel Wiring Done 7/19, moved to hangar 10/20. Successful first engine 2/21. AWC 11/11/21. First flights 11/17/21. My first flight ???
Monthly donor, I appear on the list as Jenson Consulting

Last edited by grjtucson : 05-01-2014 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:27 PM
JimS JimS is offline
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mosinee,WI
Posts: 72

The second type shown will pivot freely. The wire from the control cable is captured from only the right side (in the picture). If the washer from the left side (up against the control arm) is pinched against the cable wire then a thinner washer is needed. I just replaced my heater control box with a SS one and used the second cable keeper with good success. It pivots nicely.
Not saying one is better than the other, I just used what I had.
Built and flying a Kitfox IV / 912
Bought and flying an RV-6 / 0-320 FP slider
Built and maintaining a 1800' grass runway
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Old 12-16-2018, 11:26 PM
mikemalone mikemalone is offline
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: England
Posts: 53

Just resurrecting an old thread. I purchased a B-Nut from Aircraft Spruce (part #: 05-16245). When I tighten the screw it does not tighten enough to trap the cable (cabin heat cable .05" diameter). The replacement part sent was exactly the same. When I tighten the screw, without a cable being inserted I can't see that the end of the tightening screw even appears in the cable hole. It's like the screw hole hasn't been tapped deep enough. Anyone else experienced this problem.
Mike Malone
RV7 Builder
Worcestershire, UK
Paid-Up 2020
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:43 AM
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scard scard is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,368

The second one, by far, has my vote. But I do it kinda' backwards. First, it is just a bolt, no need to place a special order. Second, I treat it as non-adjustable and don't use a hole in the middle, but wrap the cable wire around the bolt a turn or 2 and use a jamb nut to clamp the bolt solid to the pivoting bracket part. The wire wrap then pivots around the bolt. 2000hrs seems to indicate this works pretty well.
Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
VAF Advertiser
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:46 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,724
Default And

If you use the second, be careful not to over tighten it. It can, and will shear the wire...
Aerospace Engineer '88


Dues+ Paid 2020,...Thanks DR+
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:09 AM
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PerfTech PerfTech is offline
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Redlands, Ca.
Posts: 1,525
Default Cable Ends!

? Or, you could just purchase the really good one, from
Anti-Splat-Aero and be done with it!
Thanks, Allan...
Allan Nimmo
Innovative Aircraft Safety
Products, Tools & Services
Southern California (KREI)
RV-9A / Edge-540
(909) 824-1020
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:37 PM
8 Builder 8 Builder is offline
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lowell, MA
Posts: 88

I had the exact same experience as mikemalone. I snapped my 3/32 in. allen wrench off in the set screw, rendering the whole thing useless as I could not get it out. AS&S sent me a new one and the replacement did the job. I also feel that the nut was not tapped far enough to allow the set screw to trap the wire. A few thousandths of an inch made all the difference. Mine is used on the heater door on the firewall.
Rich Snyder
Building RV-8
Superior IO-360
Garmin G3X Touch, VFR
Fixed Catto 3 blade
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