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  #1  
Old 03-22-2014, 12:04 PM
Kato's 8 Kato's 8 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Carl Junction, MO
Posts: 172
Default Fuse link protection

Hello,
I want to make a small 26 AWG fuse link for the shunt as suggested by Dynon. I have heard that protecting the melting wire is advised. Ive looked for silicone covered fiberglass sleeve without much luck unless I want to buy a spool. Any suggestions? Is that something I could get from autozone possibly? Or something suitable??
I was wondering too.... I have fiberglass cloth and RTV. What would be wrong with just wrapping the short fuse link with piece of BID and coating with high temp RTV? Sounds silly but I wonder if it would be acceptable for this application.
Any advice here appreciated. Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 03-22-2014, 12:46 PM
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curtis curtis is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 384
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http://www.bandc.biz/fusiblelinkkit24-20awg.aspx

This link is for a fusible link kit at B and C Specialty Products here in Newton, KS. Even if it not the right gauge of wire you can still use the sleeving.
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Last edited by curtis : 03-22-2014 at 12:48 PM.
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2014, 01:13 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Smile

$4.50 for 15 ft - share it with your local builder buddies...

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/18dia...ssleeving.aspx

1/8 inch ID -

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  #4  
Old 03-22-2014, 01:17 PM
Kato's 8 Kato's 8 is offline
 
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I cant tell you how long I looked around on the net and BAM!! Two easy peasy ideas as soon as I asked the question here. ThankYou!!
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  #5  
Old 03-23-2014, 12:38 AM
444TX 444TX is offline
 
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Posts: 155
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You can go to a pick and pull type junkyard and get some off a couple of 1990-2000+ Ford oxygen senors.

The 1/8" ID stuff sounds too small. It is prefered to fit over the splice and terminal to allow no chance of shorting the melted link.

George
RV8
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  #6  
Old 03-23-2014, 05:21 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Why can't you just solder the fuse wire on to the device wire (like the 20 awg mentioned in the example), and cover it with heat shrink tubing?
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RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
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  #7  
Old 03-23-2014, 07:01 AM
Kato's 8 Kato's 8 is offline
 
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Scott, Im not sure why you couldnt do that. I was going to do that myself until I read a post of someone covering the link with theese sleeves. Better protection against possible fire. Its one of those things that had I not been reading thru other builds, I would have never known and been possibly just fine with shrink tube. Now......well now it would bug me if I dont use the sleeve. Ha! Besides, I need to pay more shipping charges. Its my goal to get UPS drivers in to long pants with my donations!!
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  #8  
Old 03-23-2014, 07:30 AM
TX7A TX7A is offline
 
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Location: Abilene, TX
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Bill,
I wouldn't doubt that you already know about McMaster-Carr. I have bought many hard-to-find things from them during my build. They ship quickly & their prices are fair. Many of their items are milspec.
A quick search found this on their site. (4th one down).

Disregard if "old news".
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  #9  
Old 03-23-2014, 11:03 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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I'm not sure why you would worry about a fuse link getting damaged in the case of a fire. Mine is located FWF, and if I get a fire there, or anywhere, I have more serious problems than losing readings coming from a shunt or maybe some similar low draw sense line.
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SH
RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
RV4/bought 2019 Flying
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
JAN2020
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  #10  
Old 03-23-2014, 11:35 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post
I'm not sure why you would worry about a fuse link getting damaged in the case of a fire. Mine is located FWF, and if I get a fire there, or anywhere, I have more serious problems than losing readings coming from a shunt or maybe some similar low draw sense line.
It's not protecting the link from fire; it's containing the heat from the link as the link does its job.

A couple of layers of fiberglass under heatshrink would probably be plenty of protection. If you don't want to wait for an order to arrive, tear into any dead or dying electrical appliance that uses an electric heater (hair drier, curling iron, etc.).

Charlie
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