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  #1  
Old 09-18-2006, 03:12 PM
TerryWighs TerryWighs is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Posts: 311
Default Rudder rod end bearing adjustment

I have measured the distance from the spar to the center of the bearings as called for on the plans, and it seems the lower bearing isn't even close to the 1 3/64 " it is supposed to be??? It looks like it needs to be turned in further, at least 1/4 "...is this a common finding??? Is there any cautions on settting the rudder to close or optimum distance from the vertical stabilizer???
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2006, 04:13 PM
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jlfernan jlfernan is offline
 
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Location: Port Orange, Fl
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Default

At least on my 9A the doubler plate is on the forward part of the spar web. On the the drawings it shows to measure from the spar web(flat part in center) to the center of the rod bolt. I you don't take into consideration the thickness of the doubler plate, the rod bolt will be too far out. Hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old 09-18-2006, 05:45 PM
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AX-O AX-O is offline
 
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Location: SoCal
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryWighs
I have measured the distance from the spar to the center of the bearings as called for on the plans, and it seems the lower bearing isn't even close to the 1 3/64 " it is supposed to be??? It looks like it needs to be turned in further, at least 1/4 "...is this a common finding??? Is there any cautions on settting the rudder to close or optimum distance from the vertical stabilizer???

I just did this yesterday. The rod end bearings were installed per the plans however, when I went to install the rudder to the VS, the top 2 rod end bearings would line up but not the lower one. The lower portion of the VS spar (part outside the VS skin) is somewhat flexible. I moved it a little bit so the VS and the Rudder would line up. After the VS and the rudder were attached, I checked the range of motion and did not find any binding. It maybe ok for now but I may have to make changes to the lower rod end bearing once the VS is installed on the fuse.
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  #4  
Old 09-18-2006, 06:08 PM
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fodrv7 fodrv7 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Torquay, Victoria, Australia
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Default I'ts not an -8, but

The -7 rudder is obviously different from the -8, as the plans I have cover the -7 & -9 but not the -8.
However, the hinge distances are different for the bottom hinge compared with the top and it is not obvious on the plans. Just a small note.
Maybe, just a maybe; the -8 distances are also differnt for each hinge.
Pete.
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  #5  
Old 09-18-2006, 07:20 PM
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cytoxin cytoxin is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: south carolina
Posts: 1,111
Default went crazy on this one

the manual and plans contadict each other here. with the dimensions as specified in the book, the bottom one wasnt in far enough. it needs at least 6 turns for complete engagement in the nutplate IIRC. i ended up pulling mine up real close to the VS. the bottom one almost bottomed in the rudder. still had too much deflection so i ended up making new rudder stops. *you cant just use a cardboard template to measure the deg of sweep without taking into consideration the angle of the fuse side from center line* as ive seen done on web sites.ther seems to be loads of room in the rudder VS junction as compared to the elevator HS junction.good luck.....use those little black washers with the tiny hole in them with fishing line forperfect hole alignment.
keep the top counter balance weight gap parallel



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Last edited by cytoxin : 09-18-2006 at 07:45 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-19-2006, 08:12 AM
TerryWighs TerryWighs is offline
 
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Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Posts: 311
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Thanks all for your input...Will remeasure top two as per plans and adjust bottom rod bearing on the bottom of the rudder, making sure rudder/stabilizer gap is parallel on top...
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