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  #11  
Old 09-23-2006, 01:15 PM
RV8N RV8N is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
Posts: 487
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I just remembered that some friends take a different approach for condensation. They are partners on a Pitts S2B. They roll up towels and stuff them in the cowling intakes, then place a mechanics drop light inside the cowl from the exhaust ramp. The heat rises into the bottom of the engine and raises the temperature enough to prevent condensation. They also put a drop light in the cockpit to keep mildew from forming.

I know this won't keep moisture off your prop but thought it might help someone.

Karl
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2006, 03:50 PM
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hevansrv7a hevansrv7a is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
Default Engines vs. moisture

http://www.aviationconsumer.com/issues/36_9/maintenancematters/5585-1.html

I recommend the Engine Saver. I have one for the RV and for my C-150, too.
I saw proof it worked. My Superior IO-360 came with the upper plug holes installed with dessicant holders filled with blue indicator beads that turn pink when they get moist. After a few months I started to see a little color change. I started using the Engine Saver and the indicators in the plug holes turned back to the bright, deep blue they should be. I am flying now, so no more plug hole dessicant, but after each flight I vent the fumes from the oil filler, close it up and hook up the ES before I leave. When I check the oil the next flight there is a slight release of pressure that came from the ES. That means the ES is keeping positive pressure inside the engine of all dry air. I maintain the dessicant in the ES by baking the beads at 250 deg. F for as long as it takes and then sealing them up back in the "bottle".

It won't help with props but it must be helping with the engine and my peace of mind.

btw - the engine makes huge amounts of moist air as the normal byproduct of combustion. The hot air in the engine holds more moisture than cool air. So when your engine cools, it becomes, internally, a virtual rainforest. That's why I vent it after flight and why the ES is so important even in a dry climate. There are other kinds of corrosion from used oil that this won't help, but at least it helps with ordinary rust.
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2006, 05:25 PM
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13brv3 13brv3 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Tellico Plains, TN
Posts: 561
Default dehumidifier?

Hi Karl,

Is you hanger just a basic metal T hanger, with no insulation, and plenty of gaps to let air flow through? If so, I'll be at Sears in a flash, because my hanger is rust city. I've always joked that if you asked scientists to develop the perfect environment for condensation, they would just point at my hanger

Do you put the dehumidifier right under the plane, or just anywhere in the hanger?

Thanks,
Rusty (hoping I didn't just fiberglass my canopy shut permanently)
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2006, 03:16 PM
RV8N RV8N is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
Posts: 487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3
Hi Karl,

Is you hanger just a basic metal T hanger, with no insulation, and plenty of gaps to let air flow through? If so, I'll be at Sears in a flash, because my hanger is rust city.
It's not totally rusted out but it is around 30 years old. Typical T hanger for that era: corregated metal with two sliding doors. There are gaps around the doors and some rusted areas at the top and bottom of the walls.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3
Do you put the dehumidifier right under the plane, or just anywhere in the hanger?
I have it sitting in the convex corner nearest the plane and run a piece of hose along the wall to the back corner, where it goes thru one of the rust holes. I don't think placement is that critical. It is on a 3 hrs on/off cycle. Keeps mosture really low even after rain when water runs under the door. I can have puddles near the door but no condensation. The puddles dry up on their own in about 2 days.

Karl
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  #15  
Old 09-24-2006, 05:08 PM
Russ McCutcheon's Avatar
Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Vancouver, WA USA
Posts: 908
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Boy I went to Sears page and the feed back on this unit is terible! Have you had trouble with your unit, seems like alot of problems with it. I might have to looke further for one but the idea is great.
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  #16  
Old 09-24-2006, 08:24 PM
13brv3's Avatar
13brv3 13brv3 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Tellico Plains, TN
Posts: 561
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Thanks for the info Karl. Sounds like your hanger is about like mine as far as construction, though mine is essentially new thanks to a couple recent hurricanes. There's no doubt in my mind that a dehumidifier would help, but I'm still a bit amazed at how well you say it works. I guess I'd have to try it to find out.

Cheers,
Rusty (within a couple weeks of moving to the airport)
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RV-8, SN-80587, built, flown, sold.
RV-3B, SN-10751, rotary engine, built, flown, sold
RV-8, SN-82470, built, flown, sold.
RV-3B, SN-11351, purchased, , flown, sold
A&P - 2018
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  #17  
Old 09-25-2006, 07:09 AM
RV8N RV8N is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
Posts: 487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ McCutcheon
Boy I went to Sears page and the feed back on this unit is terible! Have you had trouble with your unit, seems like alot of problems with it. I might have to looke further for one but the idea is great.
No problems at all. It just runs like its supposed to.
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