Tip: Drilling out Rivets

[wirejock]

Do you have one of these?
I use it to drill in close quarters. First with #40. Center punch is your friend.

[amaris]

Originally Posted by wirejock

Do you have one of these?
I use it to drill in close quarters. First with #40. Center punch is your friend.

Hi Larry,
Yes, pretty similar.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/90-DEG.../#.WB_sqNyELA8

The diameter of the angle hits against the rib so it forces the bit at an angle. I tried the long bit and the shorty bit but neither gets in there.

[fl-mike]

Originally Posted by amaris

I'm starting SB-14 and just need to drill out the 8 rivets on the flange connecting to the spar. I can't get a drill in there and the angle drill still hits the rib which won't allow me to drill straight down into the rivet.

Thanks for the help!

I use a 12" 1/16" bit to pilot drill the head, then move up in sizes. You can flex the bit with your fingers (although I made a brass guide) enough to clear the drill motor and chuck.

[amaris]

Originally Posted by fl-mike

I use a 12" 1/16" bit to pilot drill the head, then move up in sizes. You can flex the bit with your fingers (although I made a brass guide) enough to clear the drill motor and chuck.

Thanks, Mike!

[TomRV8]

This works well with rivets needing to be removed close to an edge. I had the swivel head on one of my 1" clamps disappear. I rarely throw anything away, and finally came up with a good use for the dismembered clamp.

I sharpened the end of the screw in shaft. As the pics below show, I used a 1/4" drive 3/16" socket as the backing and receptacle for the shop end of the rivet to be drilled out.

Use the good advice in this thread to drill and remove the manufactured head of the rivet to be removed.

Then simply place the socket over the shop head of the rivet and screw the clamp shaft into the rivet. Works quite easily.

I used it for a while with the socket loose, and manually lined it up with the clamp. I finally broke down and used JB Weld to permanently attach the socket (which I cut shorter for a little more room between the jaws of the clamp)

I also recently discovered that when drilling the manufactured head off the rivet, and part of the head pry's up but not quite all of it, instead of drilling more, I place the tool over it and when screwing down it pops the manufactured head off at the same time as poking the shop head into the socket.

[smithflys23]

Does anyone have a source for the original posters drill bits? I cant find a Jobber bit in 3/32, or #40 with the 60 degree point. Any help is appreciated!

[BillL]

Originally Posted by smithflys23

Does anyone have a source for the original posters drill bits? I cant find a Jobber bit in 3/32, or #40 with the 60 degree point. Any help is appreciated!

Actually, the OP just used standard drill bits.


The second post, however: You might give Cleaveland a call, that looks like a plexiglass bit.

[smithflys23]

Originally Posted by BillL

Actually, the OP just used standard drill bits.


The second post, however: You might give Cleaveland a call, that looks like a plexiglass bit.

Sorry. My mistake. Thank you for the tip. I will give Cleveland a call.

[vernon smith]

I had the occasion today to try to drill out a 470 and soon found keeping a drill (135 degree) centered to be nearly impossible. I made up a simple drill jig that centers the drill on the rounded head and sends the drill dead down the middle of the rivet. It can also act as a drill stop so you don't drill clear through. If you use it for a stop you will have to clear the chips from the guide tool several times.

Of course, a different drill jig will be needed for each rivet diameter. I did mine in a lathe because I have one, it can be done in a drill press by a very good eye for the center of the fixture. I do not recommend trying to make one with a hand drill and a vise.

I cannot be the first person to make one of these

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by vernon smith

I had the occasion today to try to drill out a 470 and soon found keeping a drill (135 degree) centered to be nearly impossible. I made up a simple drill jig that centers the drill on the rounded head and sends the drill dead down the middle of the rivet. It can also act as a drill stop so you don't drill clear through. If you use it for a stop you will have to clear the chips from the guide tool several times.

Of course, a different drill jig will be needed for each rivet diameter. I did mine in a lathe because I have one, it can be done in a drill press by a very good eye for the center of the fixture. I do not recommend trying to make one with a hand drill and a vise.

I cannot be the first person to make one of these

Here is a commercially available tool. You can set the drill depth and chips clear automatically. I have used this to remove hundreds of 470's. Works on all sizes.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Rivet-.../#.Wa6qQdRHarU