Tip: Drilling out Rivets

[bret]

Originally Posted by rapid_ascent

One thing that I've found that seems to help and I must admit I'm not an expert, is to use my lower pressure line to run the drill. The drill has less torque and is easier to control. It does of course drill slower too.

One of the best tools right behind the band saw and tungsten BB was the DeWALT 12V. Lithium ion drill. 2Lb and no compressor to run. Most used tool on the project!

[spaceflightmeow]

Has anyone tried the Cleaveland rivet removal tool? Talking about this one:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Rivet-...ductinfo/RRT4/

I have the most trouble with round head rivets, using a split-point jobber bit. It just loooves to wander! Was thinking about using a plexiglass angle bit, but then I found this tool, which seems like an even more fool proof solution. Paying $50 for the apparent piece of mind that you will *never* screw up a rivet removal seems worth it. Any experience with it?

[jump4way]

I actually have one of those I'm going to put up for sale. I think I bought mine from Avery but it's the same concept. I'll sell it for $45 shipped in CONUS. It's very lightly used.

[glenn654]

The trick for round head universal rivets is to grind/file a flat on top of the manu head to give you a stable surface to work from and use the normal procedure for rivet removal.

While it is easily written in practice getting access to the rivet head with the proper tool to make the flat is considerably harder.

YMMV

Glenn Wilkinson

[JanRV6UK]

Originally Posted by spaceflightmeow

Has anyone tried the Cleaveland rivet removal tool? Talking about this one:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Rivet-...ductinfo/RRT4/

I have the most trouble with round head rivets, using a split-point jobber bit. It just loooves to wander! Was thinking about using a plexiglass angle bit, but then I found this tool, which seems like an even more fool proof solution. Paying $50 for the apparent piece of mind that you will *never* screw up a rivet removal seems worth it. Any experience with it?

Never used ... (only enough to make my mind up that its useless ... )

I only use the drills .. the fit in my angle drill ! For drilling out rivets ... try a VERY pointy drill bit .. the sharper the angle the better ...

[60av8tor]

Originally Posted by JanRV6UK

Never used ... (only enough to make my mind up that its useless ... )

I only use the drills .. the fit in my angle drill ! For drilling out rivets ... try a VERY pointy drill bit .. the sharper the angle the better ...

Differing opinion. I can't see how drilling out a 470 could be any easier. A few caveats to the tool - 1) it is pretty large. If you have access to use the tool, drilling without it probably wouldn't be extremely difficult, although this tool prevents slipping off the head. 2). You cannot see the bit/head when using, so you must check often to monitor drill depth - not really a big deal.

Thanks for the note about the bits. I have the tool tucked away for its sporadic (knock wood) use, and never made the connection with the bits and my angle drill

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by spaceflightmeow

Has anyone tried the Cleaveland rivet removal tool? Talking about this one:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Rivet-...ductinfo/RRT4/

I have the most trouble with round head rivets, using a split-point jobber bit. It just loooves to wander! Was thinking about using a plexiglass angle bit, but then I found this tool, which seems like an even more fool proof solution. Paying $50 for the apparent piece of mind that you will *never* screw up a rivet removal seems worth it. Any experience with it?

I have the ATS version of this tool. I chuck it in my 90 deg. Die grinder which helps to keep the tool square to the work vs a drill motor but I use both depending. I have removed hundreds of rivets with it. I will break a bit from time to time if I am moving fast. I could not imagine doing what I do without it.

[YellowJacket RV9]

Several times I have used a metal cutting disc in my dremel to quickly grind off the factory head of a 470 rivet, when I don't have good access for a drill. If you go slow and careful,it's very easy to take off most of the material, and then just pop off the remaining sliver, and punch out the rivet. Can also be carefully done on the shop head.

[BillL]

470 rivets were my nemesis, more than 70% were bad when driving. Now, after lots of removal practice, and learning how to drive them, now neither is a problem.

No extra tool needed for removal, just practice, or find someone with skill for training.

I do love tools though, I just bought a countersink dial indicator. That is a nice tool. I just hate checking each countersink with a rivet.

Edit 2/26/16 : Some time ago I saw a video of how quickly the alignment tool can be used to remove a 470 rivet. I bought one and it is fantastic! Very quick, very precise alignment and it has a depth stop for the drill point. Highly recommended if you will be removing many. I may be used on the shop head if they are nicely formed. Depth is not as accurate.

[Charles in SC]

I have one of those drill tools that works great for 470 rivets.
I have a tool that works great for pulling rivets out once the head has been drilled, it works even if the head has not been fully removed most of the time.
The tool I have is made for removing frets from a guitar.
Mine came from Stewart-MacDonald, stewmac.com. part #1637.
I do not know how to post a link. They also have a heavy cutter model #0619.
This can cut rivets, such as cutting the shop head off if needed.