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  #1  
Old 01-05-2014, 03:09 PM
Dbro172's Avatar
Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Fargo, ND
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Default Alternate Air Door Action

Similar to recent posting; I wasn't too keen on Vans method of coiling the alternate air door pushrod cable around the screw, nor did I have a tiny little blow torch to heat the cable to do so. If you you haven't gotten to this step you probably won't fully comprehend this little conundrum! But I think this whole little filtered air box as a whole, is more of a challenge than the sliding canopy...

So hear is what I came up with and a short video showing it in action. The control is in my cockpit, near the carb heat, but sort of recessed under the bottom flange of the panel.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhsEx4_Z9v0







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RV-9A #92103 - N803DK
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1974 Bellanca Super Viking - N16AW - Flying
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Last edited by Dbro172 : 01-05-2014 at 03:13 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-05-2014, 03:57 PM
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mburch mburch is offline
 
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Location: Northwestern USA
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Default

Well done! I like how you adapted the cable nut for this application, very simple but effective.

mcb
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2014, 04:42 PM
Don Patterson's Avatar
Don Patterson Don Patterson is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South East Wisconsin
Posts: 104
Default Alternate Air Door

You may want to add some Loctite to the screw that pivots the plate.
I have the same setup on our 7a and even though the pivoting screw was threaded into nut plate, It came loose. The whole thing was hanging and bouncing around between the cowl and the air box. After the use of lactate it never came loose again.
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RV-7A Slow Build, IO-360, Hartzell constant speed blended airfoil. CFII
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:11 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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Good idea... Will do
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Derek Hoeschen
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-9A #92103 - N803DK
G3X, Superior XO-320, Dual Pmags, Catto 3B
www.mykitlog.com/dbro172/

1974 Bellanca Super Viking - N16AW - Flying
RV-8 #83565 - N184DK - building
1968 Mooney M20C - N6801N - Sold
1956 C-182 - N744W - Sold
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