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  #131  
Old 01-20-2014, 06:58 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,820
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Bob, sounds like a good process. I wish I could have completely submerged the tank. Fortunately I didn't find any leaks and two years of flying have confirmed the results.

Rich
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  #132  
Old 02-08-2014, 03:37 PM
bobstan6 bobstan6 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFSchaller View Post
I know we've talked about it before, but this latest mod seems like an opportunity for Vans to consider a wing tank option for those of us who don't care about the wing removal issue.
Amen! After flying with a cockpit tank in my old Ercoupe for a few hundred hours I agree..
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  #133  
Old 03-24-2014, 08:35 PM
Keith Williams Keith Williams is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Milan, Illinois
Posts: 130
Default A Suggestion For Earlier Builders

I am well into doing the bulletin on the tank along with the top mounted gauge and the vent mod. This morning I installed the rivets, bolts, vent fitting and top mounted gauge. Still need to reinstall the main sender plate and test.

I was amazed at how helpful it was to have the hole for the top mounted gauge to look through when doing the work for the doubler plates. That "window" made it easy to see where I needed to remove old pro seal and much easier to be sure the tank was thoroughly clean, position the new doublers, assemble the hardware and do the final pro seal touch-ups. So much better than with mirrors or by feeling around.

I like the sight glass and was not a fan of the top gauge. But having that extra visibility for this exercise was really nice.

If you are on the fence about the top gauge maybe this is a reason to do it.
__________________
Keith Williams
Milan, IL
Built RV6 #756, 1989-99, flew until selling 5/2016.
Built RV12 #533, 5/2011 to 11/2012, flying
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  #134  
Old 04-25-2014, 09:42 AM
rv3flier's Avatar
rv3flier rv3flier is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: La Center WA
Posts: 114
Default Fuel Tank Mount Issue

I'm planning on doing the "last" fuel tank mod in May. The last time the tank was out was for the gear leg mod one year ago. I had the original builder to the mod. Yesterday, I was looking more closely at the fuel tank and it's attachment to the forward tank bracket and found the outboard frangible bolt sitting on the outside of the forward tank bracket. There's a gap of about 1/4 - 7/16" between the tank nut plate bracket and the forward tank bracket -- is that normal? Should there be a spacer for that gap? It looks like the longeron prevents the fuel tank from fitting flush against the forward tank bracket in the outboard corner.

I've been unable to get the frangible bolt started into the nut plate. The inboard bolt and the rear bolt are OK.
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  #135  
Old 04-25-2014, 06:10 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 3,070
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Try removing all 3 bolts. Then install the hardest one first, then the other front one, then the rear one last. Do not fully tighten until all 3 are started. Good luck.
Joe Gores
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  #136  
Old 04-26-2014, 01:03 AM
SportAvServ SportAvServ is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ione, California
Posts: 254
Default Leak test

Thought I would put my 2 cents in here, I used to work with proseal extensively and we pressure tested a lot and had to trouble shoot leaks on old models of the tanks. The tanks are used on currant day fighter systems. I also have built several RV tanks and fixed leaks on a few. I use shampoo for the soapy water and the results are just like the Leak-Check fluid. No conditioner type. And it smells good too, liquid soap doesn't work as well. I would say I use about a 1/4 cup of shampoo to a quart of water in a hand pump sprayer. I am currently helping a friend with a 12 that has a pre-sealed tank and luckily hasn't had fuel in it yet. I will let you know how it goes.

Cheers RT
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  #137  
Old 04-26-2014, 07:48 AM
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rv3flier rv3flier is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: La Center WA
Posts: 114
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Thanks Joe, I'll give that a try after the "last" mod is done.
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  #138  
Old 04-26-2014, 07:30 PM
Peterk Peterk is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,378
Default

On this most recent SB I changed my sealant to 3M 350-B1/2 instead of the 236 or 240 that most vendors sell. This stuff has a 1/2 work time (make what you need) and cures in 3 hours. I put fuel in it after 4 hours...all 18 gallons. Works great...same price.
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