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  #1  
Old 12-13-2013, 12:02 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,031
Default RV-8 Cabin Heat Mod

I decided to try improving my cabin heat distribution in my RV8 to allow more than just my left foot being roasted…..

I did the same thing as Jerry (Widget) Morris - only different..

I'll try posting pics, but I'm not very good at it, so bear with me. I'm looking for comments and warnings about things I may not have considered, that may make this unsafe - like not having a fresh air vent to the front seat for the winter. I figure I can reach behind me and open the back seat vent to get some cabin ventilation if needed.

Here's what I did: Removed the scat tube from the NACA vent on the left side that supplies air to the front seat eye-ball vents. I have a 'Y' tube which allows me to have two eye-ball vents on my IP for the front seat. I get a very strong blast of air from both of these in flight. I connect this 'Y' tube to the cabin heat valve located on the firewall. My cabin heat valve has a flange that protrudes into the cabin. On this flange is another 'Y' tube that supplies heated air to the IP eye-ball vents through the aforementioned 'Y' tube, and to a short piece of scat that heats my feet. I also cut some holes in the scat tube that goes between the two 'Y' tubes for even 'feet heating'. The NACA vent in the fuselage side is sealed with a piece of blue foam (Home Depot) that I cut and sanded to shape and wrapped in Al duct tape.







How does it work? Well yesterday, the OAT at takeoff was -6 C. I went to 5500' where it was a bit colder and figured that would be a good test. The heat for me in front was definitely better, with even distribution on my feet, and a very good flow of hot air coming from both vents. I'll have to wait until I get a back seater to get the final results from there, but just feeling in the back with my bare hand makes me think it will be a huge improvement over what it was. I can aim the eye-ball vents down and the hot air blows on where my GIB's knees will be. It is much warmer feeling than it was before, so maybe this and a heated seat pad will be good enough. squeezing off the eye-balls controls how much heated air goes where. I have two heat muffs in series feeding one firewall mounted heat box.
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SH
RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
RV4/bought 2019 Flying
RV6/Used kit purchased 2021 building
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
JAN2021

Last edited by Scott Hersha : 12-13-2013 at 12:13 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2013, 01:11 PM
9erDriver 9erDriver is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Brookings, SD
Posts: 113
Default Cool (or rather Warm) idea!

So in essense you repurposed the fresh air scats for heat. I like the idea of poking holes in the scat near your feet; simple and cheap solution. Prolly takes only a couple mins to convert back to warm weather mode? Let us know your GIB's feedback from the backseat.

At the risk of getting too complicated, I wonder if its possible to mix outside scat with heat scat in a Y (and adjust the outside flow somehow) to get temperature controlled mixed air blowing harder through the IP vents.
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  #3  
Old 12-19-2013, 09:03 AM
SHIPCHIEF SHIPCHIEF is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle
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Default

At the risk of sounding motherly;
I think the fresh air inlet should be open-able for safety. Even if you just have a string so you can pull the plug out in an emergency.
If you get smoke in the cockpit, you would want that huge blast of clean air.
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  #4  
Old 12-20-2013, 09:07 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,031
Default

[quote][SHIPCHIEF At the risk of sounding motherly;
I think the fresh air inlet should be open-able for safety. Even if you just have a string so you can pull the plug out in an emergency.
If you get smoke in the cockpit, you would want that huge blast of clean air.
/QUOTE]

That's my only real concern too. I tried opening the rear seat vent in flight, and even though there is fresh air entering the cabin, I don't think it would do an adequate job of evacuating smoke coming from behind the panel. I purchased an aluminum butterfly shutoff valve that will fit the NACA scat vent, but it doesn't look like it will close tightly enough to close completely. It would attach right to the vent outlet and be controlled by push/pull cable. I may try it anyway. If I can find the right size rubber stopper, I might wedge it in the vent with a pull string as you mentioned.

Mixing another source of air into the heated mix would require a 4-way Al duct, which I've never seen. I can switch back to warm weather ops in just a few minutes.

I'll try to get a back seater report in the next week or two.
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SH
RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
RV4/bought 2019 Flying
RV6/Used kit purchased 2021 building
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
JAN2021
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  #5  
Old 12-20-2013, 12:10 PM
Berchmans Berchmans is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 465
Default Heat Mod

You should buy the more expensive aluminum eyeball vents. The close of the airflow really well...I fly in cold temps so I know how well they work.
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  #6  
Old 12-21-2013, 08:04 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,031
Default

I have the more expensive aluminum eyeball vents in my panel and in the rear seat area and they close up very tightly, as you say. The butterfly valve I bought is operated via a cable, which would be necessary if it was mounted to the NACA outlet. However, you've given me an idea. I could use an aluminum eyeball connected to a length of scat on the NACA and tie wrapped somewhere within reach to be used in an emergency. A cheaper solution would be to carry a piece of wood dowel, or PVC tube that I could just use to punch out the vent plug in an emergency.
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SH
RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
RV4/bought 2019 Flying
RV6/Used kit purchased 2021 building
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
JAN2021
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2014, 12:52 PM
dcastor dcastor is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Centreville VA
Posts: 6
Default

Image links seem broken...
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2016, 02:16 PM
Alexmir Alexmir is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 8
Default hot & cold air thru vents?

Hi there,
I'm researching about this matter for the kit I ordered, and I wander if there's any reason why noboby installed a selector valve to select hot or cold air and use the panel vent or vents...
I saw the picture below and noticed the scat tube for hot air is not far from the Naca vent...
Isn't there any chance to put a hot/cold selecting box just before the panel vent? it may easily fit screwed to the Naca vent...
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  #9  
Old 02-03-2016, 06:30 PM
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gnuse gnuse is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Georgia / 0GE5 / KSSI
Posts: 415
Default

I fly in Widget's airplane on occasion and like my RV-8, it is the air leaking in from the rear of the canopy cowl that also needs to be fixed if you want the person in back to stay warm. Although these planes are all built slightly different, I think they may all suffer from the canopy lifting/or just the canopy skirt spreading very slightly and the outside air rushing in due to pressure differential. This is OK in warm conditions, but winter is a problem. BTW, Jerry's plane is certainly a lot better with the change you mentioned, except for the cold neck. Yes, a scarf helps.

Not to change the subject, I just think there is more than one item to take care of to really fix the rear seat environment.
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  #10  
Old 02-03-2016, 07:11 PM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 843
Default

A very timely thread, as my wife Amy was asking me about cabin heat in the RV-8 just this afternoon. Since I'm nowhere near that point in the build, this provided some preliminary answers to both our questions.
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