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11-26-2013, 03:38 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 160
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Has anybody Sikaflex'd a RV-6 Slider?
I'm beginning to consider how to tackle my canopy fit and I quite like the idea of using Sikaflex as opposed to riveting.
I've done a bit of a search on old threads and I can find loads of stuff for other models - but nothing on the "Slider" '6
Has this been done before ?. Good Idea ? (or not ?) can anyone point me at more info for the '6 ?.
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11-26-2013, 04:12 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ
Posts: 414
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I glued my 7 slider. I can't see how they would be significantly different. I would glue again too, no drilling for me.
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Jeremy
ATP, CFI, CFII
RV-7 N424JD KCHD
EAA Tech Counselor
2017 Bronze Lindy
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11-26-2013, 05:06 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,088
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I plan to glue mine also. The canopy parts are the same as the -7, so there is no reason you can't do it on the -6.
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Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
PP SEL / A&P
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
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11-26-2013, 06:02 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 1,565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pittsartist
I'm beginning to consider how to tackle my canopy fit and I quite like the idea of using Sikaflex as opposed to riveting.
I've done a bit of a search on old threads and I can find loads of stuff for other models - but nothing on the "Slider" '6
Has this been done before ?. Good Idea ? (or not ?) can anyone point me at more info for the '6 ?.
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I did it on -6A slider, and I'm extremely pleased with it. The only hole I drilled was for the canopy latch - everything else got Sika'd. I even Sika'd the composite rear skirts to the canopy. Very happy with how it all turned out.
Virtual Hanger post
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Brad Benson, Maplewood MN.
RV-6A N164BL, Flying since Nov 2012!
If you're not making mistakes, you're probably not making anything
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11-26-2013, 06:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Patuxent River, MD
Posts: 70
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For those of you that removed the powdercoating before glueing, how did you get the powdercoat off? I would like to leave it on the lower side rails where the fairings attach, but remove it from the bows where the plexi is attached.
Thanks,
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Scott Fechtig
Patuxent River, MD
RV-7 - Finish Kit
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11-26-2013, 09:54 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: boynton beach fl
Posts: 210
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coarse sand paper
I just used coarse sand paper to rough it up then applied sika. So far so good....
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Carl Bridges
RV7 N278RV
NOW FLYING
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11-26-2013, 10:37 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ
Posts: 414
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I just roughed it up also for the sika, but I did remove a lot of the powder from other parts. I found the best method for me was to rough up the powder coat, then apply a chemical paint stripper, then use a wire brush on a bench grinder or angle grinder. Worked better than blasting for me.
__________________
Jeremy
ATP, CFI, CFII
RV-7 N424JD KCHD
EAA Tech Counselor
2017 Bronze Lindy
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11-26-2013, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 1,565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_F
For those of you that removed the powdercoating before glueing, how did you get the powdercoat off? I would like to leave it on the lower side rails where the fairings attach, but remove it from the bows where the plexi is attached.
Thanks,
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I used a chemical stripper + wire brush to take all the powder coating off the canopy bow and roll bar, then primed & painted it flat black. I left a strip of bare metal for the sika metal primer.
__________________
Brad Benson, Maplewood MN.
RV-6A N164BL, Flying since Nov 2012!
If you're not making mistakes, you're probably not making anything
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12-01-2013, 08:26 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: kewanee Ill
Posts: 54
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Food For thought
A few days ago I had a nasty surprise when a 20inch crack suddenly appeared right over my head in my slider after a cold weather flight. I am going to try to repair the crack with adhesive, but if that fix fails a replacement canopy will need to be fabricated. How does one remove the plexi when glued onto the frame?
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12-02-2013, 08:26 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 128
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Heat gun and thin scraper. It's a two person job, hold the frame down reasonably firmly and don't be in too much of a hurry. Probably easier if you break away the bulk of the acrylic before starting with the heat.
Clive Whittfield
Auckland
New Zealand
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