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  #11  
Old 11-11-2013, 01:07 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Thanks for all the quick responses team - as anyone who has had a place built knows, everything is always wait, wait wait....and the HURRY UP, I NEED THE LIGHTS TODAY!!! :;

Consensus seems to be towards the 4' lamps due to cost and overall ease of use, and some off-line discussions with a lighting consultant got us what we needed. We'll put more science into the shop lighting when we build that - this is just general bay lighting for now.

Paul
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  #12  
Old 11-11-2013, 01:15 PM
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Whatever you get make sure they have true electronic ballast in em...

The electronic ballast are the bomb. They start great even when cold, the bulbs seem to burn brighter and last much longer and you don't have that annoying hum or weird flickers! At least that has been my experience.

When you get around to the real deal, our plant has been switching to LED technology over the past few years. Some of those fixtures are amazing! Be sure to ask an expert in the field such as JonJay.
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Last edited by Brantel : 11-11-2013 at 02:30 PM.
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2013, 01:59 PM
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RV7Guy RV7Guy is offline
 
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Hi Paul,

I swapped my 4' 2 bulb units for 4' 4 bulb type. HUGE difference. The 8' were too expensive in both acquisition and bulb cost.

Lowe's has a contractor pricing if you buy 6 or more.
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2013, 02:08 PM
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Let me know if you need any help Paul.
There is a lot of misinformation out there, some of it in these responses. Ha!
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  #15  
Old 11-11-2013, 02:31 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Worth checking on this, but I remember that the higher the T number, the more lumens per watt they develop. In other words, they're more efficient.

The last time I shopped for them, I bought a case of 48" Sylvania T8, with a color temp of 4100K. I'm satisfied with them.

One other advantage of the shorter fixtures is that they're easier to rearrange in the shop if you need to for a particular job.

Dave
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  #16  
Old 11-11-2013, 02:50 PM
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One thing I read about in the literature is that the higher the color temperature of the bulb, the more fixtures you will need to "perceive" an equivalent degree of illumination. I experienced this first hand when I tried "daylight" bulbs (6000+) in my fixtures and thought they seemed too dim for detailed work on the bench. I removed the bulbs and replaced them with something in the 4500 range and then felt I had plenty of light.
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  #17  
Old 11-11-2013, 03:15 PM
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T - is the diameter of the bulb in 1/8's of an inch. Has nothing to do with the lumen output.
Color Temperature is measured in Kelvin, has little to do with how well color is actually rendered.
Color Rendering, CRI, is the index used to gage the afore mentioned. (and in my opinion the most important)

There is a reason why I am able to make a living in the business of lighting. Same reason why others are making a living doing whatever you may do. It is very obvious it isn't selling lighting

As with many threads that get off the basic subject of building airplanes, this one has very little fact contained in it I am afraid.
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  #18  
Old 11-11-2013, 04:22 PM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Paul - You've probably already pulld the trigger. My shop has 8 units, each holds 6 4' tubes.
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  #19  
Old 11-11-2013, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Designs View Post
The trend seems to be going to 4' bulbs, even if it's an 8' fixture (which uses four 4' bulbs). Maybe it's because they are easier to transport and only one size to stock at the big box store?
I just changed the 8 ft ones in my workshop and it was a pain in the butt.

The options for 8 ft fixtures wired end-to-end (less labor) but with 4x 4ft bulbs would have been much more convenient.

Something like these -

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-...k#.UoF7jJ3n-Uk
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  #20  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:26 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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4' lights are easy to pick at the store and install when you are on top of a ladder.
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