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11-14-2013, 07:40 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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" I would drill out those blast deflectors and make them removable so you can trim them later, if needed."
Excellent point, Bill. I'm still fine tuning my deflectors in front of #1 and #2 to get perfectly even CHT's. All are within 10F now. My deflectors are screwed into the aft end of the plenum intake snouts. I can even remove the L side deflector thru the intake opening! 
__________________
Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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11-14-2013, 07:52 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupester
" I would drill out those blast deflectors and make them removable so you can trim them later, if needed."
Excellent point, Bill. I'm still fine tuning my deflectors in front of #1 and #2 to get perfectly even CHT's. All are within 10F now. My deflectors are screwed into the aft end of the plenum intake snouts. I can even remove the L side deflector thru the intake opening! 
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Good move. I simply replaced the 470 rivets with plate nuts and made the deflectors accordingly. Cap screws are used to hold them in place because they are easier to remove without taking the plenum off. This also allows those who live in very cold climates to make different deflectors for the different seasons. Simple and easy modification.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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11-16-2013, 09:46 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario Canada
Posts: 236
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SJ Cowl and Plenum
Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed
I'm pulling a blank. What do yellow cylinder fins mean? +20?
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My camera let me down, the paint is Orange. Standard size chrome Superior cylinders.
Terry.
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12-16-2013, 10:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 592
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Since we do have such a great source of information on the SJ Cowls, I think that if someone (ones) with the experience and knowledge would set up a step by step procedure, with pictures showing how to best make these installations would be a great benefit for us "newbie" builders.
Since the SJ instructions are quite sparse and make as a "sticky" (not sure that is the right word) so that that thread would be easily accessible anytime.
This I believe this would be a great resource many years since those of us facing this for the first time would not need to ask the same questions over and over.
What to you think?
Glenn Wilkinson
__________________
_____________________________________________
RV-4 Sold
N654RV @ MLJ
RV-7 Coming Soon
N987RV Reserved
2015 Donation Gladly Paid
"Maintain Thy Airspeed, Lest the Earth Arise and Smite Thee"
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12-17-2013, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn654
Since we do have such a great source of information on the SJ Cowls, I think that if someone (ones) with the experience and knowledge would set up a step by step procedure, with pictures showing how to best make these installations would be a great benefit for us "newbie" builders.
Since the SJ instructions are quite sparse and make as a "sticky" (not sure that is the right word) so that that thread would be easily accessible anytime.
This I believe this would be a great resource many years since those of us facing this for the first time would not need to ask the same questions over and over.
What to you think?
Glenn Wilkinson
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Agreed - please!! I'm just about to tackle putting the James cowl on my 9A (IO360, cold air sump, WW200RV) and I've got WAY more questions than I have answers...
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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12-17-2013, 08:14 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Jupiter FL.
Posts: 451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn654
Since we do have such a great source of information on the SJ Cowls, I think that if someone (ones) with the experience and knowledge would set up a step by step procedure, with pictures showing how to best make these installations would be a great benefit for us "newbie" builders.
Since the SJ instructions are quite sparse and make as a "sticky" (not sure that is the right word) so that that thread would be easily accessible anytime.
This I believe this would be a great resource many years since those of us facing this for the first time would not need to ask the same questions over and over.
What to you think?
Glenn Wilkinson
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When I did my install I followed one of the mil spec/ sky bolts website instructions. They had a great detailed photo/instructional PDF. Can't remember which?
__________________
VAF DUES 7/13, 12/13, 03/14
Founder/Director
www.Aircraftwraps.com
Replace paint with performance.
This is my personal account and does not reflect the official communications of Aircraftwraps.com. We have retained a username for such correspondence. I post about formation, eating, aerobatics and pilot stuff  .
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12-17-2013, 08:16 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Jupiter FL.
Posts: 451
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__________________
VAF DUES 7/13, 12/13, 03/14
Founder/Director
www.Aircraftwraps.com
Replace paint with performance.
This is my personal account and does not reflect the official communications of Aircraftwraps.com. We have retained a username for such correspondence. I post about formation, eating, aerobatics and pilot stuff  .
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12-17-2013, 11:32 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Those instructions are on the sky bolt website. They only cover the firewall and side/half connections.
Do a search here ( I am lazy at the moment or would do it for you) for cowl and DanH. Dan has made it simple for all.
None of these really address the plenum and cooling airflow.
One thing - the side split should be parallel to the fuse rail, and intersect the center of the crank (prop, etc). I used the sky bolt instructions as a guide, but regarding spacing there are some others for that here too. On top I have a closer spacing than down the side. If you are going to use SB or MilSpec to connect the halves, then you can make the line down the side intersect with one on the firewall for esthetic value. I used a water tube level to determine the split line intersection on the fuse and spaced the fasteners to match. BTW. To be easy on myself ( lazy) I mounted the engine made all measurements, then removed engine w/mount and installed the firewall perimeter tabs. This is wrong!!
Correction: I located my skybolt positions along the side of the firewall so that the line of fasteners along the cowl split would would exactly match one on the firewall. The cowl line split line intersects the firewall at about 1.25 " HIGHER than parallel to the crank. I called Vans and they said there was no "design" intent for that split, they made a cowl in place, then sent it to a supplier who made a mold. I urge you to just fit the top cowl and then locate the split at the firewall so it is even from side to side. I over thought this and it bit me. I had to remove and relocate the fastener locations along the firewall to make the lines right.
While you are at it, install a tab along the bottom of the fuse for an aero streamliner for cooling air exit. Picts on request.
I am right here with you, I have not begun the actual cowl fitting, just prep.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
Last edited by BillL : 07-01-2014 at 06:07 PM.
Reason: Incorrect information made right.
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07-01-2014, 03:43 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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Question for flying Sam James owners ...
Do any of you see cooler CHTs on the R side than the left? I have my front baffle deflectors perfected now and the R side CHTs are always 10 to 15 F cooler than the left side. I have no differential between F and rear .... Just the 10 to 15(max) difference R to left. It's not a problem for me in any way - my cylinders cool great under all conditions. I'm just curious if anyone else sees the L vs R difference.
__________________
Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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09-19-2014, 10:25 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Plenum Fitting Help Needed
I decided to add to this thread rather than start a new one. I hope it get some responses.
So, I have fitted the cowl with SB fasteners and glassed the inlet rings. SJ builders, please read below and tell me what you would do or did differently. After rebuilding the back flange, I will cut off the front inlets, make some from styrofoam, and re-glass them to fit properly against the forward heads. Also allow for a gradual expansion of inlet air. I really need some experienced opinions here.
Not addressed yet is the fact that 1/3 of the oil cooler is blocked with the rear at this plenum cover level and I have not formulated the details of how to fix that yet.
The baffles have been trial fitted on side and back, but before getting into the fitting at the front of the engine I searched and studied and even cut out the SJ templates. In order to understand the baffles, I got the Lycoming engine installation drawing and used it to overlay the baffles and understand what the exact dimensions are for the Vans baffles.
To begin - the SJ plenum is a "universal fit", it does not fit anything. I have an early one, but Sam says the new ones are the same. I am not going to argue with him.
Here is a box built with the exact dimensions expected to fit the engine. It is parallel, spark plug locations provide a good datum for fore/aft locations. Inserted is the SJ plenum. There are a couple of dimensions on the plenum that are good, the side span is perfect and parallel, the forward contour fit to the case is pretty good. The back is bad, are the air inlets are bad. Not shown is that the height above the heads is the same as measured at the center of each head (inline with plug 2" above valve covers).
I used the contour and the plug locations to affix the engine. The contour is tight against the from of the case and down as low as it can go. The inside flow area is 2 inches above the top of the valve covers. Meaning, it can not go lower or I runout of cooler flow area and risk possible air flow throttling at the inlet over the front head/cylinders.
Here is the back - and how the original glass does not follow the baffles. it is off in every way. I will cut off the flange and re-glass that.
Here is the left and right view of where the inlet snouts "match" to the forward baffles. There is a significant gap on both sides. The left side inlet is centered with the cowl, the right is 1/2" low. it can not be moved anyway with the other constraints.
Right side -
Left:
EDIT - I did look at HydroGuy's, RonDuren, and Mike Bullocks pictures. Rupsters posts had some good pictures too, but he has a 320. All of these contributed immensely to my understanding. I also looked at ALL pictures on the yahoo SJ group. These are just ill fitting parts, and I would suggest making your own.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
Last edited by BillL : 09-19-2014 at 10:35 AM.
Reason: added comments.
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