Fuel Tank riveting technique

Iluke · #1 11-08-2013, 10:50 AM

I'm about to start sealing up my RV-7 fuel tanks, beginning with the stiffeners, and I'd appreciate a bit of advice from those who've done it before. Specifically, did you back rivet the stiffeners or cleko them first and shoot the conventionally with gun and bucking bar?

The reason I'm asking is that I've read it is important to get parts fully seated in the proseal before riveting. Several folks advise that 100% clecoing the ribs and the bulkhead before riveting is important to get the right "squeeze out" of proseal. Is this a concern for the stiffeners or does back riveting them do the trick?

thanks

-Ivan

John R. Graham · #2 11-08-2013, 11:12 AM

Ivan,

Probably the most famous thread on this general topic is Tip: Proseal ...The fact and the fiction. I'm not there yet on my build but Rick Galati is an acknowledged expert.

- John

YellowJacket RV9 · #3 11-08-2013, 11:29 AM

I backriveted my stiffeners with no issues. Both my takes tested leak free although I haven't flown yet. Given that, my only additional advice to the very good advice out there is to spare no pro-seal. The insides of my tanks are not as pretty as some I see, but my goal is to never see them again, so I could care less. I covered the entire rib flanges with pro seal, not just the rivet heads. The pro-seal gets bad, might as well use it all. Time will tell but I'm pretty sure I won't have leak issues. It's a messy job but not hard.

Chris

bruceh · #4 11-08-2013, 08:31 PM

I had more problems trying to back rivet the stiffeners due to the slippery-ness of the proseal. I ended up just bucking them with the mushroom set and tungsten bar. It does help to let the proseal tack up for a day, then come back and shoot the rivets. Just be sure to keep everything super clean, and put a dab of fresh proseal in the rivet holes before you shoot the rivets.

Maxrate · #5 11-09-2013, 07:23 AM

Ivan,

Plus one on Ricks thread on tank sealing. I just completed both tanks using the "Fay sealing" method that he discusses and it's a real game changer. No need to slop around in tank sealant. I leak tested my tanks to 1.5 psi for two days with no leaks. Get plenty of gloves ready and I found that 60cc syringes worked best for laying down nice 3/16" beads. Check out my builders log for plenty of pics. Another great resource is Bruce Swayze's builders log found here on the VAF.
Good luck!

az_gila · #6 11-09-2013, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruceh

I had more problems trying to back rivet the stiffeners due to the slippery-ness of the proseal. I ended up just bucking them with the mushroom set and tungsten bar. It does help to let the proseal tack up for a day, then come back and shoot the rivets. Just be sure to keep everything super clean, and put a dab of fresh proseal in the rivet holes before you shoot the rivets.

I found that firmly holding the nylon part of the rivet set with your other hand worked well to stop it slipping and sliding...