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11-04-2013, 08:48 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gold Hill, NC25
Posts: 2,400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Fischer
Great thread, I look forward to following your progress. Did Larry V suggest a routine removal of the heat muff at annual cond. insp. to monitor the exhaust? (a pain but...)
Blue skies my friend
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No he did not. But it seems a reasonable thing to do. I would NOT recommend removing the muffs unless you have the hardware to reinstall. Those threaded rods are notorious for breaking.
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Kahuna
6A, S8 ,
Gold Hill, NC25
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11-04-2013, 09:38 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Venice, Fl
Posts: 1,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-FAH Q
Mike,
Just a thought about your mount. Cracks can hide under the powder coat and not be seen. With your mission, painting it so you can get a proper look at the joints may be in your best interest.
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+1 from another Gary. I don't trust powder coating. YMMV 
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Gary Palinkas - Gman.... VAF #161
Venice, Fl
RV-6 "Sassy" Flying 400 hrs since Oct 2011
Lycoming 0-360 A1A, FP Sensenich Prop
SARL #19 .... Van's Calendar March 2015
Although exempt several ways, =VAF= Dues paid to support this awesome site/family
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11-04-2013, 09:53 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,420
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Am I the only one who's (slightly warped) brain throws the suffix "weld" onto the thread title???
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Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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11-04-2013, 10:09 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 14
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Heater Muff
HTML Code:
I have had no reason to look under them. Hmmm. Whats that?
I have been doing my annuals, on certified and experimentals, accompanied by an A&P/IA. He always insists on removing the heater muffs to check the exhaust pipe. It's required for certified airplanes and given the possibility of exhaust entering the cockpit via the heater ducting it would be very wise to check it every annual.
Good luck with the engine O/H
Mike
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Mike Smith
RV-6, 160hp, fixed prop
Grass Valley, CA (KGOO)
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11-04-2013, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 126
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Mike,
The easiest stuff to remove the powder coat is Permatex Gasket Remover. Spray it on and let it set for ten minutes and the powder coat will wipe off with a paper towel. It will reduce the time from trying to get it all off with glass beads.
Jim
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11-04-2013, 09:00 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 2,574
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removing powdercoat
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAT
Mike,
The easiest stuff to remove the powder coat is Permatex Gasket Remover. Spray it on and let it set for ten minutes and the powder coat will wipe off with a paper towel. It will reduce the time from trying to get it all off with glass beads.
Jim
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Boy is that a GREAT tip. A bunch years ago, I asked on this forum any ideas for removing powdercoat, and the only advise I got was, "burn it off with a propane torch." What a pain that was.
Thanks!
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Steve Smith
Aeronautical Engineer
RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
WW 200RV
"The Magic Carpet"
Hobbs 625
LS6-15/18W sailplane SOLD
bought my old LS6-A back!! 
VAF donation Jan 2020
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11-05-2013, 05:21 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stuart, FL /Hartford, CT/Virgin Gorda,BVI
Posts: 3,122
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great thread. just curious what other overhaul or replacement items are on your list[ hoses, wires, ect].
i dont pull my heat muff but i have a co detector that is VERY sensitive. i feel these exhaust systems are as bullet proof as they come.
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TURBO YES =VAF= Payed Jan2019
Ed D'Arcy
RV6-A 5,200+ hrs, R-44 1,600 hrs, Helicycle 320 hrs, gyro sold,35,000 miles flown in 2015 
Stuart, Fl / S WINDSOR,Ct / Virgin Gorda, BVI - under major repair from hurricane damage
VAF #840 EAA AOPA FAC FABA QB SPA
addicted pickle ball player
https://i.postimg.cc/tn3h4svg/IMG-3101.jpg
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11-05-2013, 06:04 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gold Hill, NC25
Posts: 2,400
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I don't replace any wires that don't show signs of needing it. As for hoses, all my hoses are nearly new thanks to Tom at TS Flightlines.
Do to my activity of formation (throttle never stops moving), throttle cables seem to last ~400 hours at best. Ill be replacing that which has 300 on it. They are such a bear to replace, easiest to replace now with the engine off. Plus I managed to do a complete melt down of my throttle cable during a troubleshoot of my amp meter. Had a charger hooked up to my hanging wires from the alternator. Managed to short across the throttle cable and it melted the cable enough that it doesn't move now. ARGH.  Stupid mistake but fortunately it needed replacement anyway.
Most of my adel clamps are junk. Oil covered, deteriorating, and nasty looking.
AFP fuel servo and bendix flow divider sent to AFP for overhaul and those items have been sent to JB so he can run the engine.
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Kahuna
6A, S8 ,
Gold Hill, NC25
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11-05-2013, 07:04 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
Posts: 4,514
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Interesting post, Kahuna.
Thanks for taking the time to document it. Most of us do not fly as much as you but it is good info to know some things should be replaced.
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RV-12 Build Helper
RV-7A...Sold #70374
The RV-8...Sold #83261
I'm in, dues paid 2019 This place is worth it!
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11-05-2013, 09:44 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gold Hill, NC25
Posts: 2,400
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New Smoke Injectors
In a previous post I mentioned the smoke injectors completely eaten/worn away as in this picture.
It would seem there has been a change in design from John at SA and these are the new style below. Looks fancier. I am concerned about those little spray nozzles getting clogged up and how Im going to clean them. Plus they are not cheap at $55 each which includes the SS clamps. $125.59 for 2 injector kits shipped to my door.

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Kahuna
6A, S8 ,
Gold Hill, NC25
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