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10-17-2013, 06:21 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,088
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Another Panel Lettering Question
I dug through old posts and didn't quite find what I was looking for (probably there somewhere though).
I designed most of my panel cutouts in CAD. As a result, it is pretty easy for me to do the same with the labels. I spoke with Stein about using the water-slide decals, but I would like to be able to tranfer large areas all at once. I have put some snazzy borders and grouping around my switches and since it was cad designed and machine cut it should all line up. With the water-slide I don't think my skill-level is sufficient to move a decal of that size without a screw up.
Taking that all into account I think it would be best to go with dry-transfer decals. However, I don't have much experiance with those. Has anyone applied a large decal? I would do all my switches in one shot and another large one for all my breakers. If you have done something similar, how did it work out for you?
Also, what clearcoats have builders found to work well with the dry transfers? My basecoat will be PPG MTK Urathane and I was planning a low-gloss clear from the same product line over the top of the decals.
Thanks,
__________________
Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
PP SEL / A&P
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
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10-17-2013, 06:32 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hobe Sound, Florida
Posts: 291
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We use the dry sticky type that the guy that cut our panel fabricated. We installed the large switch one and the large cb one be for populating and then were careful with tht install. We did not use any clearcoat post install. They have held up very well. The name of the,outfit is Sebastian Communications in Merritt Island florida
Phelps
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Kevin Phelps
Paid thru Dec 2020
RV-7A flying N782WP
Stuart, Fl
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10-17-2013, 06:41 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Edgewater, FL. KSFB
Posts: 1,116
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Colin,
I don't know how large of a label you are talking about but I had no problem with the multiple switches size. I used the wet slide labels from Stein.
Really very easy to install. Just be careful, the labels I received were not the same size/ scale as the pdf I sent. This caused some switch line up problems.
I used regular PPG clear JC661 but used an additive to dull the clear. As you can see by the pictures I didn't use enough additive. It is still somewhat glossy.
[IMG]  [/IMG]
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10-17-2013, 08:16 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,088
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Mark,
Your panel looks great. Has some gloss, but not too much, should be just fine!
My switches are similar to yours. Except grouped a little closer with switch guards separating the functional sections. I would like to do them all in one shot so a good size decal. Steins watersides only come on 8.5x11 which is to small so I would have to break up the switch labels. No a big deal, but if the scaleing isn't accurate it would be an issue.
I think the problematic area would be the CB panel. It is a sqare shape with not much room for placement error. I do like the look of those decals though.
I'll probably try the dry-transfers first and do a test on scrap to ensure paint compatability with the ink. There is a place I can order the transers from that can do larger sheets. Then I can fit everything on one page without breaking it up.

__________________
Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
PP SEL / A&P
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
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10-17-2013, 11:07 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 351
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Laser
If you have it all in CAD, you might consider anodizing the panel and laser engraving the lettering. We did ours that way, and it turned out very well.
__________________
Kevin R. Walsh
Cozy Mk-IV
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10-17-2013, 11:14 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krwalsh
If you have it all in CAD, you might consider anodizing the panel and laser engraving the lettering. We did ours that way, and it turned out very well.
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Doing that would be really nice, but I think the cost may be a limiting factor. Plus I would like to match the grey color of the interior trim.
__________________
Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
PP SEL / A&P
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
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10-17-2013, 11:21 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Posts: 1,017
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If using CAD you could go a step further and have the panel lettering cut out and then back light them with LED strips. No need to worry about crooked lettering then and it's nice looking during night ops. Just a thought.
__________________
Carlos in Arizona
EAA Chapter 538 www.chapters.eaa.org/eaa538
Wittman Tailwind W8 N53CH (built & sold)
Pazmany PL-1 N2029 (bought & sold)
RV7 - N537TC (reserved & building)
Emp, Wings & Fuse done - working on FWF
"The air is an extremely dangerous, jealous and exacting mistress. Once under the spell most lovers are faithful to the end, which is not always old age." - Winston Churchill
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10-17-2013, 11:42 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazmanyflyer
If using CAD you could go a step further and have the panel lettering cut out and then back light them with LED strips. No need to worry about crooked lettering then and it's nice looking during night ops. Just a thought.
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If cost wasn't a concern I would have an entire panel overlay reverse engraved and backlight the lettering and grouping borders. Alas, cost is a concern (time as well), so I don't want to go crazy. I have made that mistake a number of times and added plenty of time to my build.
__________________
Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
PP SEL / A&P
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
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10-17-2013, 12:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Since all of the switches are grouped in a straight line, you could make a self adhesive stiff overlay.
They can be a thin as 0.020
From here -
http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/custom-placards.htm
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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10-17-2013, 12:56 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 4,194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels
Taking that all into account I think it would be best to go with dry-transfer decals. However, I don't have much experiance with those. Has anyone applied a large decal? I would do all my switches in one shot and another large one for all my breakers. If you have done something similar, how did it work out for you?
Also, what clearcoats have builders found to work well with the dry transfers? My basecoat will be PPG MTK Urathane and I was planning a low-gloss clear from the same product line over the top of the decals.
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Yes, I applied entire rows of dry transfers in a single session. If you are going to do multiple rows or a border graphic, then I would use a piece of wax paper to isolate the areas you aren't rubbing to ensure that they don't accidently stick someplace you don't want them.
Since most print shops charge by the 8.5 x 11 page, I made sure that I had 2-3 copies of each graphic just in case I made a mistake in application. I did and was glad that I had extras. Masking tape will take the applied transfer back up.
I used four or five coats of a satin clear to cut down on the glare. I did use very light coats for each layer. Many of the areas on my panel where the lettering are located are going to constantly touched and bumped by hands. I'm not sure they would hold up after time, unless a good clear coat is on top. You do want to test whatever clear coat you use choice on a scrap piece to ensure that it doesn't have a chemical reaction.
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