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10-16-2013, 03:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
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Removing oil return AN fitting
I noticed a little oil on my #4 intake tube and traced it to where the oil return AN fitting screws into the head. I'm having a little trouble removing it so I can put some sealer on the threads/replace the fitting. I removed the intake tube and primer port plug to try to get better access but no luck. Regular open end bottoms on the head and My cheaper 90 open end isn't strong enough. Not enough room to get a wrench on underneath until the fitting gets turn 1/4.
Any good ideas on tools to buy/make to get the AN fitting off?
Thanks,
Andy
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RV 7 400 hours and counting
19 donation done
Last edited by crabandy : 10-16-2013 at 03:41 PM.
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10-16-2013, 04:16 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Gunter, TX
Posts: 314
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Andy, two suggestions. Hard to tell from the picture, but if there is clearance beneath the fitting, could you move the oil line aside and use a thin wall deep socket on the fitting? Another option might be to use a flare nut wrench. Good luck.
Steve
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10-16-2013, 05:12 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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Die grinder cut off wheel, cut the angle portion off, then use a square drive socket 8 point
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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10-16-2013, 06:29 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
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Steve, no clearance from the bottom and must be a 90 from the top.
Bret, that is my plan B! Tomorrow I was going to try an adjustable wench/vise grips on the flare side along with the 90 open end. Well see what happens.
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RV 7 400 hours and counting
19 donation done
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10-16-2013, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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Bret's works. Vise grips really tight will usually crack them loose Too. The male flare will probably hit the adjacent cylinder fins though. That means you'll have to dremel a 1/4 inch or so off a fin or two.
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Actual repeat offender.
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10-16-2013, 08:02 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Gunter, TX
Posts: 314
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Opps, didn't realize that it was a 45 degree fitting. Cutting off with a dremel is probably best way to proceed.
Steve
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10-16-2013, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed
Bret's works. Vise grips really tight will usually crack them loose Too. The male flare will probably hit the adjacent cylinder fins though. That means you'll have to dremel a 1/4 inch or so off a fin or two.
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That fitting went in there without dremeling the fins, it should come out the same way. I know I can remove that same fitting on my engine without issue.
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Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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10-16-2013, 09:51 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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They go n when the cylinder is off. Not all casting will hit the fins, but a lot of them will.
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Actual repeat offender.
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10-17-2013, 08:32 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
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Adjustable wrench on the flare side along with the open end 90 was the hot ticket, came out without a fight. Glad I didn't have to resort to the die grinder and all the metal shavings and an open oil port.

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RV 7 400 hours and counting
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10-17-2013, 11:17 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabandy
Adjustable wrench on the flare side along with the open end 90 was the hot ticket, came out without a fight. Glad I didn't have to resort to the die grinder and all the metal shavings and an open oil port.

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Looks like this will work fine as long as you don't plan on using that fitting again.
I am sure your local shop would show you the proper wrench they use.
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