Tip: How to Safely Remove a Rivet

[az_gila]

OK guys... this keeps coming up, and I've demonstrated this to two new local builders recently.
So I decided to clearly document it.

This is the safest method for rivet removal, with the least risk of damage to the hole.

No original credit is claimed.. I've just documented it clearly on my web site.

Hope it helps all of the new builders.

http://home.earthlink.net/~gilalex/Rivet/

gil in Tucson

[vlittle]

For those interested, about 2/3 the way down on this page is a drawing of this technique.

Vern Little

[az_gila]

Thanks Vern.... I spent 30 minutes on Google, and never found it....
Would have saved me some drawing....

gil A

[Rick6a]

Originally Posted by az_gila

OK guys... this keeps coming up, and I've demonstrated this to two new local builders recently.
So I decided to clearly document it.

This is the safest method for rivet removal, with the least risk of damage to the hole.

No original credit is claimed.. I've just documented it clearly on my web site.

Hope it helps all of the new builders.

http://home.earthlink.net/~gilalex/Rivet/

gil in Tucson

Gil,

The only thing I would add to the rivet removal procedure is that it is always a good idea to back up the work by having a helper hold a bucking bar firmly against the side of the shop head of the rivet before punching the remains of the rivet through. This greatly eases the mechanical effort to punch the rivet out while lessening the chances of causing local deformation and can be a particularly important step if the shop head of the offending rivet is the outermost hole on a flange or sitting on an easily bendable tab such as those rivet locations on the nose of a rib. If not backed up, you can easily deform the flange or tab while punching the rivet out and bending the material back into place to reshoot the rivet can be difficult.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by Rick6a

Gil,

The only thing I would add to the rivet removal procedure is that it is always a good idea to back up the work by having a helper hold a bucking bar firmly against the side of the shop head of the rivet before punching the remains of the rivet through. This greatly eases the mechanical effort to punch the rivet out while lessening the chances of causing local deformation and can be a particularly important step if the shop head of the offending rivet is the outermost hole on a flange or sitting on an easily bendable tab such as those rivet locations on the nose of a rib. If not backed up, you can easily deform the flange or tab while punching the rivet out and bending the material back into place to reshoot the rivet can be difficult.

Rick... I've not noticed that - Since most of the rivet is removed, the forces involved are usually less than that of an automatic center punch... however in very thin materials distortion could happen, and some builders are heavier handed than others.....

I'll edit the web page to-nite and add a note.

Thanks for the suggestion.

gil in Tucson

[chaskuss]

Originally Posted by Rick6a

Gil,

The only thing I would add to the rivet removal procedure is that it is always a good idea to back up the work by having a helper hold a bucking bar firmly against the side of the shop head of the rivet before punching the remains of the rivet through. This greatly eases the mechanical effort to punch the rivet out while lessening the chances of causing local deformation and can be a particularly important step if the shop head of the offending rivet is the outermost hole on a flange or sitting on an easily bendable tab such as those rivet locations on the nose of a rib. If not backed up, you can easily deform the flange or tab while punching the rivet out and bending the material back into place to reshoot the rivet can be difficult.

Rick & Gil,
I have found that using a 3/8" deep socket gives the best support on the back side of a rivet being knocked out. Unlike a bucking bar, it gives support 360 degrees around the rivet.
Charlie Kuss