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09-02-2006, 04:21 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,283
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Slider sounds interesting for those designers
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Originally Posted by 13brv3
Has anyone else had problems with the latest pivoting alternate air door? I was just looking at the package and deciding if I wanted to install it. After seeing the pic that Jon posted, I'm pretty sure I'm not going to mess with it.
I am putting a better carb heat muff on, and I'm strictly a VFR kinda guy, so perhaps I'll just forget alternate air, unless Van's comes up with a more robust version of this.
Cheers, Rusty
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avpro56's idea of a sliding door with no nuts and bolts sounds pretty cool. VAN ARE YOU READING?  For those who feel they must have this, may be you can come up with a sliding door with bonded on guides, no fasteners to fall out or get sucked up.
One more observation, the way the current metal pivot door works, I doubt you will be able to re-closed it once open. Once you rotate the door out of the slot, holding down one edge, I doubt you can get it under that flange again and close with just a light duty control wire.
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George
Raleigh, NC Area
RV-4, RV-7, ATP, CFII, MEI, 737/757/767
2020 Dues Paid
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09-02-2006, 04:38 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Tellico Plains, TN
Posts: 561
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by gmcjetpilot
One more observation, the way the current metal pivot door works, I doubt you will be able to re-closed it once open. Once you rotate the door out of the slot, holding down one edge, I doubt you can get it under that flange again and close with just a light duty control wire.
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Good observation George. Actually, it's stated in the instructions for the mod that you have to manually close it. As hokey as that sounds, for someone like me who "might" use it once in a lifetime, that would be just fine.
Funny thing is that I originally ran two bowden cables, for the carb heat, and alt air. Then I ordered the oil cooler shutter thing. For a while, I was wondering which two items I'd use the cables for, but then I decided not to install the oil shutter. Problem solved... until now. Now that I'm also not using the alt air, I have a spare cable
I'm actually thinking about a sliding door, which would be easy to make. Hmmm.
Rusty
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RV-8, SN-80587, built, flown, sold.
RV-3B, SN-10751, rotary engine, built, flown, sold
RV-8, SN-82470, built, flown, sold.
RV-3B, SN-11351, purchased, , flown, sold
A&P - 2018
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09-02-2006, 08:27 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
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Me too
I also found my magnet clinging to some steel in the airbox during inspection and reported it here and to Van's. I came up with a fix for mine and it is posted under Builder Mods. I still have that in place and it is working as intended. I also riveted a 8-32 platenut to the inside center of the door for racing in the AirVenture Cup. In that situation I install a metal strip across the bottom of the airbox with a screw in the platenut. At other times the screw is in the platenut (for a couple of reasons) but the strip is in a side pocket in the airplane. I fly IFR and I'll live with the by-pass as is. By the way the original design had no filter by-pass - this was something that was developed after pilot experience showed that something was needed. I still have the second iteration fix in the envelope it came in and after seeing the failure photograph in this thread, it's going to stay there without question. Thanks for showing that.
Bob Axsom
Bob Axsom
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09-03-2006, 08:35 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 77
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Magnetic alt air door
My magnetic door fell apart too, after 30 hours. I have an AEIO-360 B1B. Vans told me that another flaw in that design is that it can be sucked open at high power settings with any induction system not just Airflow. I would like to have alt air but I'm not sure I like the new design either.
Neil
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