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  #21  
Old 10-03-2013, 09:30 PM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
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Location: Dublin, CA
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Thanks for the clarification. Nice graphic Bill. You learn something new every day. I must admit I've never thought about this, but it might have been something you figure out at the time. However it does appear that many people haven't.
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  #22  
Old 10-03-2013, 10:38 PM
fatherson fatherson is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
Bill R.
Astronaut Candidate Trainee Assistant Third Class
Agreed, that's a helpful graphic for those of us not-yet FWF. Thanks, Bill.

[and nice to see you "owning" that title Paul gave you in another thread; it's like you were "tapped" with a knighthood! I'm seriously jealous.]

--
Stephen
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  #23  
Old 10-04-2013, 04:01 AM
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Andrew M Andrew M is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Secluded Lake,Alaska (AK49)
Posts: 359
Default Flash light

How many of you are looking at the baffles with the cowling installed (can you? as I don't have the benefit of an RV nearby) A couple of properly places "snips" cured a hot cylinder on a lycoming/maule installation. You can actually rely on air pressure to aid in a "shingle" overlap to seal well. Having a few pieces overlap at the aft end seal better than one waved piece.
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  #24  
Old 10-28-2013, 10:59 AM
Valentine Valentine is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newt View Post
What'd you say to the A&P, Dan?

- mark
When I had my Bonanza, annuals had to be signed off by an IA, not just an A&P.
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  #25  
Old 11-01-2013, 07:03 AM
Selmax Selmax is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Berlin.Germany
Posts: 25
Cool Sample of perfect baffle seals

Would anyone like to show us a really good sample of his RV9/RV7 baffle seals? My ones are worn out (I bought a flying RV9 ) and I would like to redo them ... but I haven't got any picture how.

Does anyone would show us a photo how they should look like especially the difficult spots at the front of the cowling and the air inlets? Thank you so much for your help and your advice.

Pit

Last edited by Selmax : 11-01-2013 at 07:53 AM.
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  #26  
Old 11-01-2013, 09:29 AM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Location: St. Paul, MN.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
The baffle seal material should be riveted to the inside of the baffles and curved towards the engine. Thus, when air enters the cooling inlets, it pressurizes the baffles and they seal against the inside of the top cowl forcing the air down between the cylinders, not past the fabric.

Here is a diagram I found on the net:
And the first few times you fly with your plane, you'll be peeking inside through all sorts of convoluted means to make sure the baffle material has fallen the correct way.
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  #27  
Old 11-02-2013, 06:53 AM
Selmax Selmax is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Berlin.Germany
Posts: 25
Default Nose & Air inlets

Thanks Bob,
unfortunately this drawing doesn't show the lining of the baffle seals around nose and both sides of the air inlets, thats why I am asking again, sorry. Any help with a picture of your RV7 / 9 baffle seals ?
Thanks Pit

Last edited by Selmax : 11-03-2013 at 01:24 AM.
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2013, 04:08 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Location: St. Paul, MN.
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Default

I totally can help you with pictures. Send me your email address and I'll send you plenty.
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  #29  
Old 11-13-2013, 01:31 PM
Selmax Selmax is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Berlin.Germany
Posts: 25
Default redo the baffle seals

Bob,
thank you very much, indeed. I sent a PM to you with my email adress.
Pit
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  #30  
Old 12-03-2013, 10:49 PM
mr.sun mr.sun is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wet, Western Washington
Posts: 157
Default Baffles

Any chance you can post those for the rest of us?
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