VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-7/7A
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-29-2013, 01:41 AM
grayforge's Avatar
grayforge grayforge is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 886
Default Slider Canopy Frame Screw Up

Arrggghhhh!

I was attempting to bend the slider canopy frame lower rail (the box section) to conform to the shape of my fuselage. I guess I shouldn't have clamped one end in a vise between a couple boards and pried on the other end... I ended up kinking the section. See the attached photos.

So what's my best bet? Should I swap the canopy frame out for a whole new one? If replacing the whole frame is overkill, what's the best fix for this?

I also sent an email to Russ McCutcheon, who fabricates these...

Thanks,
Russ



__________________
Speed Is Life

VAF Donation made: 1/28/2020, My RV-7A Build Log
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-29-2013, 01:25 PM
Russ McCutcheon's Avatar
Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Vancouver, WA USA
Posts: 911
Default

I had no great ideas for him, you guys are up!
__________________
Russ McCutcheon
@rv4welder on Facebook
russmccutcheon@gmail.com
We build many of your RV weldments.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-29-2013, 01:34 PM
randyintejas's Avatar
randyintejas randyintejas is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 350
Default

Thanks for posting? very timely, one side of mine is 1/4 off where the pin goes into the block and I was trying to figure out how to get that bend.
__________________
RV 7
391RK Reserved
IO360 9:5:1 AFP
Slow Build
Last 90%
Tyler, Texas
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-29-2013, 01:50 PM
Sig600 Sig600 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: KRTS
Posts: 1,798
Default

The options I see are

1. Cut it out and weld in a new section of stock
2. Take a strip of steel, and have it welded over on all sides like a bridge to help stiffen it back up.
3. Fill it and build on (not sure how much the strength of it is compromised)
4. Replace it

If it were me, I'd probably go with option 4. 1 and 2 will be more effort and probably cost than replacing. 3 may compromise the structural integrity.
__________________
Next?, TBD
IAR-823, SOLD
RV-8, SOLD
RV-7, SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-29-2013, 02:42 PM
Dan B Dan B is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 217
Default

I replaced the frame after kinking the front bow. The C.O.D.shipping cost more than the frame. I suggest a repair if possible.
__________________
Dan Burdette
RV-9A, IO-320
Skyview, Garmin GTN750xi, TT Gemini AP
CFI, CFII, ATP
Guthrie-Edmond Rgnl, OK (KGOK)
________
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-29-2013, 03:56 PM
ka6dan ka6dan is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dunnellon Fl
Posts: 177
Default

Sorry to see your problem
been there done something similar! Payed way to much for shipping. Don't know if I would try for a repair. Mostly I would order a new frame but make sure Vans uses the LEAST costly shipping. Not much fun in making a $400 - $500 error and ending up with close to $1k mistake. My error was chasing a lower gap at the roll bar. Suggest working with what you have no trying to make biggish changes to the frame.

Bottom line shipping cost is a killer if your tracking the total cost of your RV smile.
__________________
Ka6dan
RV9A
Phase I @ X35 is complete
Paid My 2021 dues. 😃
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-29-2013, 06:51 PM
pkill's Avatar
pkill pkill is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: North Central Oregon
Posts: 106
Default

Hello Russ,

Can’t tell if you’ve kinked the frame or just dented the inside face of the box there ? That inside face will be covered by the C-791. Might give the C-791 a test fit and see what you think ? If it is just a cosmetic dent rather than a true structural kink, you might be good to go.

pk
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-29-2013, 07:23 PM
Pmerems's Avatar
Pmerems Pmerems is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 828
Default An idea

Since it appears that is it is an expensive part with an expensive shipping cost associated with it, I would recommend trying a repair.

Here is my idea:

Drill a hole in the center of the ding. Hole diameter should be sized to accept a number 8 sheet metal screw threaded into the steel. With the head of the screw protruding above the box tubing of the frame, attempt to cry the screw out of the hole using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or any other arrangements that gives you leverage. Hopefully since I believe the box tubing wall thickness is rather thin, you might be able to pull the ding out further. It will not be perfect and the whole can be welded up. The paint will be damaged during the welding process and we'll have to be touched up. If successful this will be for cheaper then total replacement including shipping charges.
__________________
Dream it, Build it, Fly it

Paul Merems (EAA Tech Counselor, EAA Sheetmetal Workshop Instructor/Volunteer 18 yrs)
ExperimentalAero-HANGAR BANNERS
www.experimentalaero.com
RV-7A (Flying since 2010)/RV-4 (sold 1990)
Tucson, Arizona 85749
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-29-2013, 07:39 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 6,320
Default DON'T DRILL A HOLE YET!!

Yes you will have to pull that dimple out, but go to a body shop and get their stud welder and put some studs on there and use a slide hammer to (try) pull that "dent" out. Being high strength, it may not work without being quite hot. Having used the drill/screw/hammer/pliers method, I like the stud welder much better. Several studs can be combined to cover larger area too.

Disclaimer, this may not work at all due to high material strength, but may be less messy than drilling puckering and welding up the holes. You can weld, pull, cut grind, then put another stud close to the last one in the process.

Good Luck, I welded up several predrilled holes in my tip up canopy frame that did not match the skin.
__________________
Bill

RV-7
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-29-2013, 07:41 PM
vlittle's Avatar
vlittle vlittle is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Victoria, Canada
Posts: 2,370
Default

I had a series of these dents on both sides of my canopy frame in the RV-9A. This was required to get the shape required to fit my fuselage.

They get covered up later on in the process. Don't panic, build on.
__________________
===========
V e r n. ====
=======
RV-9A complete
Harmon Rocket complete
Part of EAA award-winning OnSpeed team
The VV in huVVer.tech
Victoria, BC (Summer)
Chandler, Az (Winter)

Last edited by vlittle : 09-30-2013 at 12:13 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:58 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.