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Old 09-29-2013, 01:41 AM
grayforge's Avatar
grayforge grayforge is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 886
Default Slider Canopy Frame Screw Up


I was attempting to bend the slider canopy frame lower rail (the box section) to conform to the shape of my fuselage. I guess I shouldn't have clamped one end in a vise between a couple boards and pried on the other end... I ended up kinking the section. See the attached photos.

So what's my best bet? Should I swap the canopy frame out for a whole new one? If replacing the whole frame is overkill, what's the best fix for this?

I also sent an email to Russ McCutcheon, who fabricates these...


Speed Is Life

VAF Donation made: 1/28/2020, My RV-7A Build Log
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:25 PM
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Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Vancouver, WA USA
Posts: 911

I had no great ideas for him, you guys are up!
Russ McCutcheon
@rv4welder on Facebook
We build many of your RV weldments.
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:34 PM
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randyintejas randyintejas is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 350

Thanks for posting? very timely, one side of mine is 1/4 off where the pin goes into the block and I was trying to figure out how to get that bend.
RV 7
391RK Reserved
IO360 9:5:1 AFP
Slow Build
Last 90%
Tyler, Texas
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:50 PM
Sig600 Sig600 is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: KRTS
Posts: 1,798

The options I see are

1. Cut it out and weld in a new section of stock
2. Take a strip of steel, and have it welded over on all sides like a bridge to help stiffen it back up.
3. Fill it and build on (not sure how much the strength of it is compromised)
4. Replace it

If it were me, I'd probably go with option 4. 1 and 2 will be more effort and probably cost than replacing. 3 may compromise the structural integrity.
Next?, TBD
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:42 PM
Dan B Dan B is offline
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 217

I replaced the frame after kinking the front bow. The C.O.D.shipping cost more than the frame. I suggest a repair if possible.
Dan Burdette
RV-9A, IO-320
Skyview, Garmin GTN750xi, TT Gemini AP
Guthrie-Edmond Rgnl, OK (KGOK)
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:56 PM
ka6dan ka6dan is offline
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dunnellon Fl
Posts: 177

Sorry to see your problem
been there done something similar! Payed way to much for shipping. Don't know if I would try for a repair. Mostly I would order a new frame but make sure Vans uses the LEAST costly shipping. Not much fun in making a $400 - $500 error and ending up with close to $1k mistake. My error was chasing a lower gap at the roll bar. Suggest working with what you have no trying to make biggish changes to the frame.

Bottom line shipping cost is a killer if your tracking the total cost of your RV smile.
Phase I @ X35 is complete
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:51 PM
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pkill pkill is offline
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: North Central Oregon
Posts: 106

Hello Russ,

Can’t tell if you’ve kinked the frame or just dented the inside face of the box there ? That inside face will be covered by the C-791. Might give the C-791 a test fit and see what you think ? If it is just a cosmetic dent rather than a true structural kink, you might be good to go.

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Old 09-29-2013, 07:23 PM
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Pmerems Pmerems is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 828
Default An idea

Since it appears that is it is an expensive part with an expensive shipping cost associated with it, I would recommend trying a repair.

Here is my idea:

Drill a hole in the center of the ding. Hole diameter should be sized to accept a number 8 sheet metal screw threaded into the steel. With the head of the screw protruding above the box tubing of the frame, attempt to cry the screw out of the hole using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or any other arrangements that gives you leverage. Hopefully since I believe the box tubing wall thickness is rather thin, you might be able to pull the ding out further. It will not be perfect and the whole can be welded up. The paint will be damaged during the welding process and we'll have to be touched up. If successful this will be for cheaper then total replacement including shipping charges.
Dream it, Build it, Fly it

Paul Merems (EAA Tech Counselor, EAA Sheetmetal Workshop Instructor/Volunteer 18 yrs)
ExperimentalAero-HANGAR BANNERS
RV-7A (Flying since 2010)/RV-4 (sold 1990)
Tucson, Arizona 85749
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:39 PM
BillL BillL is offline
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 6,320

Yes you will have to pull that dimple out, but go to a body shop and get their stud welder and put some studs on there and use a slide hammer to (try) pull that "dent" out. Being high strength, it may not work without being quite hot. Having used the drill/screw/hammer/pliers method, I like the stud welder much better. Several studs can be combined to cover larger area too.

Disclaimer, this may not work at all due to high material strength, but may be less messy than drilling puckering and welding up the holes. You can weld, pull, cut grind, then put another stud close to the last one in the process.

Good Luck, I welded up several predrilled holes in my tip up canopy frame that did not match the skin.

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Old 09-29-2013, 07:41 PM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Victoria, Canada
Posts: 2,370

I had a series of these dents on both sides of my canopy frame in the RV-9A. This was required to get the shape required to fit my fuselage.

They get covered up later on in the process. Don't panic, build on.
V e r n. ====
RV-9A complete
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Chandler, Az (Winter)

Last edited by vlittle : 09-30-2013 at 12:13 AM.
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